Hey guys,

I’m about to start building my first system having looked at the plans for all three versions. I have a few questions about modifications that immediately spring to mind as I’m setting up.

1) Why does the bottom reservoir cap assembly in version 3 need to be the way it is? It seems like version 2 system seems a lot more simple, is there any reason why this can’t be used in a version 3 set up?

2) Why could the hydroponic cages not be placed deeper down the bottles? That way more plants (and bottles) could be accommodated in a single column. You’d need to cut down the bottles to do, which would require a bit more modification to the system, but I don’t see why this would be too difficult.

I realize how green I am to all this, so feel free to tell me if my ideas wouldn’t work and why!

Thanks.

I am doing a couple of vertical pallet planters and changed the airlift to suit the planters. In this case, the next planter will have 2 wooden legs in plastic buckets. The water will drip down the legs and back into the buckets. I usually use the t joint method outside the bucket but I also appreciate that not everyone has room for a u tube that is one ft lower than your T joint. I tried a few different methods and this one works.
This way uses all the depth of the bucket and you might get a little bubbling when it restarts for a few seconds but usually not. Note that once again, I got a few days where the tubes acted funny before they behaved themselves. Pretty sure it is whatever sheen or grease is on new tubes. I think all new tubes need to just sit low with nutrient running through them for about a day before you put them up in position. There is almost zero drainback in new tubes and that is what is causing the problem. Newbies are going to be very confused by this.
My pallet planter project is at instructables A very interesting aspect of this (for me) is that the air pump is 120 ft away from the planter. (It still works and pumps the air through 1/4 inch tubing all the way to the greenhouse). Brian

1.In my very first attempt I did as it said in the instructions. I cut a V shape into the cork. It worked pretty well at first, but after a while it started to let through too much water and suddenly it didn´t let any water through. It was completely blocked.

2. In the next attempt I just made a small hole in the cork. This meant that water was allowed through at regular intervals, smoothly. But the hole also meant that there where some splashing and dripping on to the plants which they didn´t like.

3. So I made the hole bigger and used some of the leftover pipe. This worked fine, but after some hours it began to leak and part of the water wanted to go on the outside of the tube.

4. So today I used a glu gun to seal the space between the cork and the tube. So far this works great.

We’ll see if it holds..

Painted some new bottles. Maybe I´ll turn my to columns into four.
After all there is some space left in the window.

Now I have finally got my windowfarm up and running.
I made the structure  last year, sowed the seeds several months ago, and planted the tomato plants in the structure  about one month ago. So far I have watered by hand, but today I managed to build the pumping system.
However, I have encountered some problems. The two biggest so far:

1. The system will not start up again when it has been switched off. I wanted to have it on a timer but every time it´s on standby I have to rearang the air needles to make it start. I will try to find a solution, but if you have an idea, please write a comment.

2. The air pump I am using is not the quietest. I have tried to put the pump in a box with towels to muffle the sound. But it still sounds too much. And I’m a little afraid that it will overheat in there. Maybe I´ll pick it apart and check what it is that makes the sound, or I´ll try to change the box or I´ll just buy a new pump. Some other suggestions?

Column to the left: Chili pepper, tomato, chilli pepper.

Column to the right: Chili pepper, basil, chili pepper.

Today I also started watering with a nutrient solution adapted for hydroponics. I hope it will make the plants a little stronger with time.

Since the windowfarm hangs in a window with little natural light I have put up an extra lamp. A fluorescent light fixture with a light that simulates daylight.

This isn’t our first hydro build, by far, but it is our first one to be hung in a window! It’s in an east facing window in our living room & we love how it brings the same esthetic as a houseplant, but the benefits of FOOD!

This was about a week after we set it up. We started the beans & cucumbers from seed in a little greenhouse on top of the fridge. The top two pots are cucumbers and the bottom has 4 green beans.

We hung the pots with some hemp we had in our craft surplus & made the trellis out of the hemp & bamboo stakes. I’ve even made a bow and arrow out of the bamboo!

This is how the middle & bottom pot get watered. There is a piece of bamboo shoved up there to keep the tubing straight.

Here’s the reservoir, made from a cereal tupperware we got at Target & some ducting tape to make it lightproof. We took the little hinged pour spout off of the lid and ran the watering and drainage tubing through the opening. You can also see the timer there, right now we run the water pump for 15 mins every 2 hours from 6am to 6pm. As the plants get bigger we might have to adjust the schedule, but for now it works out.

We use a water pump we had around the house and it works great until the water level in the res gets down to about 25%. It’s a good reminder that it’s time for a refill without having the pump run dry.

Our first sight of beans!

Beans, beans….

….and more BEANS!!

Okay, enough beans. Here’s our first cucumber flower!

We’re getting a lot of male flowers, just waiting for that female! Well, that’s what we have so far. If you have any specific questions on what we used or how we use it leave a comment or send a message & we’d love to share!

Happy Growing!

-The Sanders

Windowfarms recommend a 4 outlet pump but many people already have a 1 outlet pump and probably would like to use the one they have.  So here I have a video about a method to split the air stream to work 2 or more columns. If you just split the air with a Y or T splitter (even if both airlift tubes are exactly the same), the air will “choose” one tube (or the other one) and then all or most of the air will go up that one with zero or almost zero airlift happening in the other one.  This is because the “starting pressure”  is higher than the “running pressure” for any airlift pump.  So whichever one starts first will probably stay running really well at the expense of the second one (which will be either really slow or not running at all!)

The method I show to prevent this is to throttle both of them.  In the video, I use little “taps” to tighten and restrict the airflow to both sides until both sides run. AND stay running!   For this to work, both airlifts should have similar submergence (but they do not need to go to the same height).  You might also be able to see from the video that you can have one going a bit faster than the other.  So possibly, you can supply more water to some plants when they are big while in the other airlift supplying just a little to them because they are tinier.

There are other methods too but this one should be easy to do and to adjust.

2  airlift columns from a single outlet air pump!

I only did 2 columns because I didn’t have enough tubing to show 3 working.

3 columns  might work in my case (my pump is an old aquarium pump that I found dumped on the side of the road so it is probably not such a good model)

Update 2nd Jan 2012.  3 columns works too but in the case of my pump it is the limit.  Video Jan 3 2012. 3 airlift tubes working from a one outlet aquarium bubble pump

Youtube now allows you to edit videos so if I am not too busy, I will “upgrade” the video (and this post)  over the next week or 2 and show methods to measure the flow or at least compare flows under different conditions too. Brian

I’m new to this and have yet to make my own windowfarm; born, bred and living in Reykjavik, Iceland.  The idea of using my time and resources to grow my own vegetables, greens and fruit is very exciting to me.

But after researching the articles here a little, there is one BIG thing bugging me about the whole thing.  Why use all those synthetic materials to grow food?  Why not try to design a system that uses natural materials like glass, wood etc. as much as possible?  Best would be to use only natural materials, of course!  Don’t know if that is practical though.

What are your suggestions and ideas on this issue?  I would love to get some feedback on the use of natural materials only.

This is an easily available attachment for pop bottles here in Canada. They are available in garden centers for watering plants.  This means the the entire windowfarm can be made from pop bottles and still get excellent airlift.

Your water tube would go down in a J shape to the t- joint to prevent back flow into the reservoir.

If you cut the “showerhead” top off, you can use an upturned pop bottle as your reservoir for a windowfarm and  attach the water pipe to a t-joint  outside  the bottle  and at whatever submergence you choose.  I think this can make life easier for everyone.

Plant watering attachment for pop bottles

I finished an article on why window farms rock! Please check it out at http://melissawindowfarm.blogspot.com/2011/02/why-window-farming.html

Thanks!!!

Melissa