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The prettier(?) window farm – Construction

2:24 pm in Materials and Resources, posts with pitcures!, Projects in Process, questions by Mikko Mattila

I posted earlier about designing a prettier window farm. I’m now building a clean and simple single column farm, and I figured it might be about time to post something about my progress. The pots, suspension and drip pipes are mostly in place. The reservoir and the airlift are still in the works. I haven’t made up my mind yet about what kind of reservoir to use.

Part list:

  • 4 Plastic orchid pots. These are made of Polypropylene, which is (afaik) safe to use with food. The pots also have an inward dent in the bottom, so they will never drain completely. I don’t know whether this is a good thing or a bad thing. Be careful when drilling plastic. I managed to break one pot by using too much pressure. (2 euros/pot at Bauhaus)
  • 2 meters of aluminum pipe, 6 mm diameter. One meter for drip pipes and another for the air lift. (4 euros/meter at Bauhaus)
  • Two meters of aluminum strip. Mine is about 12mm wide and 2mm thick. I wouldn’t go any thinner than 2mm, since the rigidity of the column would likely suffer. (4 euros/meter at Bauhaus)
  • 4 gaskets for sealing the drip pipes. The ones I got seem to do the job pretty well: 17mm outer diameter, 5mm inner diameter, 4mm thick. (around 2 euros for a 4-pack)
  • M3 Nuts, washers and screws (or bolts) for attaching the pots to the aluminum strip. (Less than 1e total)

Parts not installed yet:

  • Sera Air 275R Plus air pump with adjustable air flow and two outlets. Came with two non-return valves. (28 euros at a local aquarium store)
  • 6mm “colorless” air hose. It’s possible to stretch this over the aluminum pipe using pliers and some soap as lubricant. (2 euros / meter at a local aquarium store)

Still missing the reservoir and the airlift needle(s).

    

This is not the final assembly and you might notice that some of the drip pipes and pots are not straight. I’ll fix that before doing the actual planting. Originally I’d thought I’d have to glue the drip pipes to the pots, but with the gaskets in place and the hole being tight enough, I’m not sure if glue is necessary. It won’t matter anyway if the drip pipes are wet on the outside.

I was wondering though, should the downward water flow be somehow restrained so that the water drips down slowly? Now when I pour water in the top pot, most of the water has come down in less than a minute. How does it work in WF 3.0?

The wife said it looks alright. I might even get a permission to build a second column ;) Stay tuned. The next step is building the airlift.

Improving the design for more polished looks

7:21 am in Getting Started, posts with pitcures!, Projects in Process, R&D-I-Y by Mikko Mattila

I’m about to build my first WF. While I generally love the idea of growing food at home, the free design of WF 3.0 is a bit of an eyesore as such. I wanted to come up with something that’ll still be a full grown window farm, but is still approved by the wife. ;)

Update: Second Draft

Thanks for the input everyone. I came up with a simpler less work intensive solution: flower pots. I went to a hardware store to look at PVC pipes, and stumbled upon some plastic orchid flower pots. They seemed right size and only cost 1,99 a piece, so I got two for testing. The pots have a dent in the bottom, kinda like wine bottles. See the drawing. This type of construction prevents the container from draining out completely. Not sure if this is a good thing or a bad thing.

I also decided to try string instead of metal wire, since I couldn’t find proper parts for attaching the wire to the pots. Here’s a picture with initial string based suspension:

   

 

Drawing:

 

First Draft

Here’s my first draft on an improved design. I didn’t bother drawing the irrigation system in detail since it’s not really important in this context. The main idea is that we’ll encase the water bottle, suspension system and the irrigation system in painted PVC pipe. Any other pipe should do as well. My first draft doesn’t depict how exactly the pipe and bottle are attached to the suspension system. I haven’t really made up my mind on how I should implement it. Anyway, the PVC pipe should be sort of fixed into the suspension wire system, while the bottle and the plant are easy to remove. It’s not really feasible to remove the pipe, since the wires and the irrigation hose run through the pipe.

 

 

Comments and improvement ideas welcome :)

See the next post for construction details and pics.

by Rafi

Theories…

9:41 pm in Education, How-Tos, made from scratch (without a kit), Uncategorized by Rafi

seems like there are quite a few things i need to know B4 i start building the window farm…i could just go ahead and build it following the instructions but i wanna do some research first…

 

mainly on:

-Hydroponic systerms and its nutrient solutions

-Design and the nitty gritty details to customise it according to my window and the physics

PLANTS-its life! Therefore proper responsibility should be taken B4 i start up the farm

ima take my time with this….its gonna pay off for sure!!

 

by Anthony

Finished my first windowfarm!

11:39 am in Completed Window Farms, made from scratch (without a kit), Plants, posts with pitcures!, Version 2.0 airlift system by Anthony

Its basically a variation of version 2.0. Instead of using the needles, I used the T method for pumping water and I have a tube going to the reservoir instead of connecting directly . It seems to be working so far because the plants (sage and lettuce) have survived overnight.

There seems to be an issue uploading pictures. Ill try to upload some later.

Windowfarm: Genesis through Month Three

6:38 pm in Completed Window Farms, kits, Starting Seeds by Allison Casey

Hello, fellow Windowfarmers!


It’s my inaugural post on these pages, to share the story of my three-month-old farm.


An advance warning: this will almost certainly be a little lengthy… For the visually-inclined, I’ve uploaded some accompanying pictures.


Chapter 1: Seedlings


We decided to build a Windowfarm at my workplace last summer, and were one of the first on board when the kits first went on sale. The kit (Classic 4-column and bottles) arrived in August, and I ordered a huge selection of seeds from Burpee to coincide (at the time I didn’t realize the kit itself comes with enough seeds to start the farm).


Growing seedlings… is not the easiest thing in the world. The first time around I set myself up with an ice cube tray, where I put maybe an eighth-inch of hydrogen peroxide and filled the rest with water. I made little labels for each variety of plant I was growing (all leafy things — a few types of lettuce, chard, bok choy, basil, spinach…) and dropped a few seeds for each into the mix.


Unable to find any real instructions for how long to leave the seeds in the mixture, that first time I left them in for almost the entire workday, then inserted them into Flora Plugs and put the tray in a cupboard (seeds like the dark). A few days later, I started to see some green!


As the sprouts sprouted I moved them to a second ice cube tray on a windowsill, and watered accordingly.


Well… until the weekend.


I somehow naïvely had it in my mind that these little seedlings were a little more resilient than was actually the case, and didn’t stop by the office to tend to them on Saturday. When I finally dragged myself in on Sunday afternoon it became apparent that the window I’d chosen absolutely baked in the early afternoon, and the entire tray was bone-dry and quite dead.


So, a bit of a failure there.


By the time I managed to try again, it was early January. This time I decided to grow the seeds at home to make it a little easier to be at their beck and call, and this was when I hit my stride.


Two main changes here: leaving the seeds in the hydrogen peroxide mixture all day seemed a little excessive (these things grow all on their own in nature, right?), so this time I stuck with about a half an hour — and found no difference at all in sprout rate (both times I planted 16 plants and got 15 sprouts). I also bought a daylight-colored compact fluourescent lamp and reassigned my desk lamp to grow-light duty.


Keeping the seedlings under close light for roughly 18 hours each day, after about four weeks I had some short, bushy little plants that were ready for their next phase of life.


Chapter II: Farm Building


This was… an adventure.


The kit makes the assembly of the farm fairly straightforward and easy, so I’m only going to touch on the points where I struggled or had to improvise.


First of all, mounting. This is about the only area where the kit leaves you hanging (no pun intended!), as there are about a million different variations of how best to do it, depending largely on what you’re drilling into.


Instead of putting the hooks directly into the ceiling of the windowsill (crumbly sheetrock, in my case), I ended up buying a piece of 1×4 wood the length of the window and mounting that with screws (and wall anchors) and L-brackets on either end. (I do not want this thing to fall. Ever.) This method allowed some flexibility (and room for error) in the placement of the hooks, which can be screwed directly into the wood.


I highly, highly recommend taking on this phase of the project with a second set of hands, and ideally one of you will be somewhat familiar with the basic construction-ish type skills that such an endeavor requires. I managed to get through it on my own (with a couple of consulting calls to a friend with more experience hanging stuff than me), but it probably took two hours longer than was actually necessary, and I was a cursing, sweating mess by the end of it.


Chapter III: Time to Turn it On


So. The thing is built and mounted. Transplanting the seedlings is pretty dang simple (especially if you’ve used the Flora pods and don’t have to worry about washing soil off), and they’re now nestled their net cups and bottles. Things are looking good.


I go to add water to the reservoir bottles, and every single one of them starts to leak. Profusely.


Bummer. Major bummer. Taking apart the needle mechanism and tightening every piece helped, but didn’t completely stop the leak. I went out and bought some supplemental sealing washers (probably not the technical term…) to seal it better, which helped a little bit more but still fell short of a complete fix. Finally I ended up using silicon sealant and applying it to the outside of the mechanism (it probably would be more effective inside the bottle cap, but I didn’t really want it leeching into the water supply), and after letting it dry overnight the leaks finally stopped. Were I to do this all over from scratch, I would probably spend a bit of time tweaking that part of the design.


I then ran into trouble getting the water in each column to make it all the way to the top, even after playing around with pump pressure. More specifically, three of the four columns needed a bit of romancing to actually start working. For two of them, just messing around with the alignment of the tubes  ended up working — once they were a little straighter or adjusted just… so… they were fine and allowed the water go all the way up.


For the third nitpicky column, I ended up finding that the tubes can have two different ends: either it closes off a little from the full diameter (I imagine these ends were melted slightly by the manufacturer to get a clean, easy cut), or they are completely open, exactly the width of the tube diameter. For my last column, this slight narrowing of the path was enough that none of the water was making it through the top of the tube, where pressure is lowest. By flipping it around so the tube was open on top, I was able to fix the problem and get the water flowing.


Chapter IV: Thoughts of a “Seasoned” Farmer


First of all, this is not exactly a “green” endeavor. CFLs have turned out to make the difference between a lackluster, limp, disapointing farm and one with vibrant, viable plants. I have two columns of two lights and really could use a third set for the bottom row of plants, and all of these are on for 18 hours a day. It uses a fair amount of energy. Whether it’s really offset by the leafy greens you’re bringing into the world and the more sustainable life you’re now living… well, who knows. Personally I think the novelty factor tips the scale in favor of the farm, but the hardcore environmentalist might not agree.


Speaking of lights, once I decided to add them to the farm, I went the pin-socket route. These things are great and cheap, but I had to manually scrape away the rubber insulation with an x-acto knife to expose the wire where the pins were going to hit — the pins are supposed to poke through on their own, but in my case they didn’t. Just something to keep in mind if they don’t immediately work.


Be very, very careful that the bottle caps don’t clog with algae or other gunk. This became an issue about two months after launching, and resulted in a backup of water in the base of some of the higher bottles, which led to overflowing when we topped off the reservoirs (it took about a week to figure out what was going on) and the dehydration of some of the lower plants. It was a huge pain to take care of. Next time I take the thing apart I’ll probably cut the openings so they’re a little bit bigger and less likely to clog.


I have had particularly excellent success with bok choy, basil, and chard. Romaine lettuce also grows well, and I believe my buttercrunch and simpson lettuce would have been good growers had they not fallen victim to a system malfunction that ended in a bit of a tragedy for one full column. I had terrible luck with rosemary and avon spinach, and after an initial growth spurt, my pea plant seems to have lost the will to live. I have younger cucumber, sage, tomato, and kale plants that are all looking very good, but aren’t yet harvestable, so their jury is technically still out.


Several of my plants were sowed in soil then transplanted into the hydroton pellets, and this transition actually went much better than expected — perhaps even smoother than the plants started in flora pods.


Some of the modifications shared on this community look like they offer great improvements in terms of aesthetics or functionality; the kit leads to a functional farm, but it looks a little science-fair-esque. Fixed mounting and tubes and nicer bottles might allow for a more professional-looking and slightly easier-to-manage system, and I would recommend considering them if you’re starting from scratch.


And if I were to start from scratch, I would do just that — I wouldn’t go with a kit. I appreciated having it as a guide for my first build, but I think I’d be too inclined to tweak the second time around to find it useful.


As one final thought, this thing is a lot of work. It requires active involvement and observation and maintenance. Troubleshooting takes quite a bit of brainpower and know-how, and I’m still very much working toward a stable system full of thriving plants. Generally speaking, it’s not something you can just check in on once or twice a week.


That said, I love the Farm. It looks awesome, there is a crazy sense of achievement at growing plants from seed to the point where they’re edible (especially here in NYC), and visitors love it. I’ve learned a lot, and there’s of course the certain sense of pride when someone sees it for the first time and goes, “Holy cow, what is that?!” If you can devote the time, energy, and resources, I highly recommend taking one on for yourself.


Update on my recovering windowfarm

11:00 pm in Nutrients, Plants, posts with pitcures!, Projects in Process by Louise from Quebec

Hi !

Eight weeks ago, I presented you what I now call my sailboat windowfarm. Seven weeks ago I was presenting you my clay pot windowfarm.

Then, I explained in detail my pH imbalance adventure, telling you that I lost several plants in the process. Now, I’d like to show you the survivors. Here they are. First photo : My sailboat windowfarm suffered a much smaller scale pH imbalance. Its growth was interrupted and one of the pole beans lost two leaves to it, that’s all. On the first storey : 2 pole beans, second storey : 2 nasturtiums, third storey : 2 cherry tomatoes.

Second photo : a close-up of the biggest leaves on the pole beans.

Third photo : my clay pot windowfarm is still half empty and the spinach and thyme will get out soon. The two center columns are connected to their own reservoir. They are designated home for all flowering plants and may receive a special blooming nutrients formula. The two outer columns are designated for leaf crops only.

Following photos : watercress started from cuttings, surviving lettuce, blooming peas and baby cucumber.

Getting caught up with the updates

5:58 pm in Completed Window Farms, posts with pitcures!, Version 3.0 Modular Airlift Columns by BionicMel

Hello everyone.

I have posted a bunch of updates on my blog for all that are interested. There have been some problems with my window farm, mostly pH/nutrient lockout issues and algae.

There are still a few weeks to be posted, but I am slowly getting caught up.

Here are the links to the individual posts:

Week 3.1 - Planting the new column: http://melissawindowfarm.blogspot.com/2011/03/week-31-planting-new-column.html
Week 4 – Holy cow a BEAN!: http://melissawindowfarm.blogspot.com/2011/03/week-4-holy-cow-bean.html
Week 5 – Problems starting to manifest: http://melissawindowfarm.blogspot.com/2011/03/week-5-problems-starting-to-manifest.html
Week 6 – Bountiful Beans: http://melissawindowfarm.blogspot.com/2011/03/week-6-bountiful-beans.html
Week 7 – Attack of the algae!: http://melissawindowfarm.blogspot.com/2011/03/week-7-attack-of-algae.html

This gets me caught up to March 4. I have been taking pictures every weekend of my progress.

</shameless self promotion>

Ha ha, anyway, let me know what you think.

Thanks!!!

-Melissa

Testing a waterclock dripper system based on Brian’s plans

7:13 pm in energy consumption, made from scratch (without a kit), Materials and Resources, posts with pitcures!, Projects in Process, Uncategorized by Louise from Quebec

Hi everybody !

It took me a couple of weeks of thinking, and a whole weekend to work out everything, but there it is. My sailboat windowfarm is now working on a regulated dripping system since… 5 hours. This one is not plastic-free, but it is electricity-free and if everything works out as planned, the dripping flow will be entirely automated… in between the moments I choose to close it (since there is no timer either on this installation).

By the way, Brian, I tried twice to send you a comment on your last post (Easy way to attach a T-Joint…), because I had a few questions, but nothing would pass. I posted another comment to someone else and it passed. So I don’t know what I did wrong or if you blocked the receiving of comments by mistake. Anyway, thanks a lot for your explanations and drawings. It made things a lot easier.

I’m still looking for a mainly non plastic dripping system for my clay pot windowfarm, so I may come back to the emitter valve (if I can find one somewhere) and glass or metal containers, but this one is my practice, servicing my all plastic sailboat windowfarm.

Photo 1 : While looking for an emitter in my local hydroponic store, the salesman directed me right to this product (which is intended for animal water tanks). At 22,99$ (Canadian), I couldn’t resist long, as he didn’t have the emitter and didn’t seem to know exactly what I was talking about. It ressembles a toilet float valve, only much more compact. The brand name is Little Giant, item number TM825, by Miller Manufacturing co. Glencoe, MN.

Photo 2 : Here’s one of the plans provided with the thing. It’s easy enough to assemble. You fix the red floater to the black housing with a “cotter pin”, you tighten your brackets to the black housing with two short screws, and later, you use two long screws to thighen the whole thing to the side of your reservoir. You have a washer to put down into the mouth where a garden hose will be screwed up (standard 3/4″).  That’s about it for the stuff provided in the box.

Photos 3 and 4 : I still needed other components though. I spent another 10 box on the rest. As I wasn’t just about to use a 10 foot garden hose, I needed to mount one much shorter. So I bought an adaptator (on photo 3, it’s the grey plastic part just under the yellow hose) between the 6″ bit of yellow garden hose that I used and the float valve (in black), and then another adaptator (on photo 4, it’s the black part) between the upper reservoir (a cheap plastic container that I had to pierce a round hole into) and the garden hose. Finally, I placed two of these plumbing metal necks (I don’t know their name in English) over both junctions to insure watertitghness. By the way, the green electric wire is just there to keep the garden hose bent down, because I was tight on vertical space. I only had 12″ vertical clearance. Now that the hose adapted in it’s place, I won’t need the wire anymore. With that bent in the middle of the garden hose, I was afraid to block the water’s flow, but thankfully, it just slows it down.

Photo 5 : I used a flimsy plastic container made of half a kitty litter container. It doesn’t show on the photo, but I put a small piece of wood between the container’s exterior side and the float valve brackets so both long screws could set onto it. It makes everything more tighten at the same time. The container is only 4 1/2″ deep. I think it’s just the minimum to make the float work properly (if you don’t need a fast refill).

Photo 6 : Here’s a view of the whole installation. the principles are quite simple. You have two reservoirs, one on top of the other. The upper reservoir will empty out gradually. The bottom reservoir acts like a buffer, because the float valve regulates the intake of water and keeps this reservoir always at the exact same level. This way, the water pressure in the bottom reservoir is alway the same, so you can adjust your dripping valve once and the water flow will remain constant until your upper reservoir is empty. In that event, the float valve reservoir would then start to empty itself and from that point, your water flow would not be even anymore, slowing gradually. One end of my drop-by-drop tubing is maintained at the bottom of the reservoir with a rock, just like in the previous system. The tubing runs over the edge of the tank, so I didn’t have to pierce any hole to drive the tubing through the container’s side. It lowers the risks of leaking, which is to greatly please me, considering the position of all this water just above my dictionnaries LOL ! The white plastic bottle neck is simply a piece I cut out and squeezed under the black float valve to stabilize it. It doesn’t get in the way of the red floater (which you cannot see on this photo, because at that moment, it was in its upper position, inside the black housing, shutting the flow of water).

There’s at least one drawback on this installation : it won’t be that easy to dismount it to clean up every component. I could not find the proper parts that would have allowed me to separate the two tanks in a jiffy. I tried with metal garden hose connectors, but it kept leaking, so I brought everything back to the hardware store to get a refund.  Next time, maybe ?

Photo 7 – 8 – 9 :  To make the installation a little tidier, I used an old wooden crate to put the float valve reservoir in it. It also acts às a support for the upper reservoir. It’s too long for nothing (about a third too long), but it’s 12″ wide, just the exact depth of my shelf. My instatallation is barely under 12″ high, so it almost scratches the upper shelf. But I can draw the whole installation a little outward (so it sticks out about an inch) and it becomes very easy to refill the upper reservoir (photos 8 and 9).

Photo 10 : A view of the whole thing. You’ll notice that my highest bottle is at least a foot lower than the shelf where the float valve reservoir is sitting. I think it’s the reason why I can get away with the water pressure given by less than 2 ” of water depth in that reservoir. Otherwise, the resistance in my tubing would be too high to let the water flow freely, possibly. It would be different if my reservoirs would be directly over the windowfarm, but the ceiling clearance is not sufficient to allow me such an installation.

Just before publishing this article, I noticed that the drip rate is at roughly one drop every 4,5 seconds. Five hours ago, I settled it at one drop every 2,5 seconds, so it slowed down very gradually. But it’s my drop-to-drop ajustment valve that is the culprit, I’m sure of it (it’ this small white thing on the tubing, with a red adjustment wheel on photo 10). The water level in the float-valve reservoir didn’t move a millimeter. I’ll give you an update on that.

Update on the construction of my clay pot windowfarm

6:42 pm in posts with pitcures!, Projects in Process by Louise from Quebec

Photo 1 : I figured out a way to expand my windowfarm, building a last bottom row of four containers, sitting independently on the shelf right under the window. Now, I’ve got 22 containers in this window.  The tubing system in the upper part is still a mess remaining to be addressed, though. But the slow-drip irrigation in itself is working fine. My 8 litre reservoir usually lasts 6 to 10 days without needing to be refilled. It feeds 2 columns. My smaller 600mL bottles feed one column each. They last 24 to over 48 hours.

Each morning, I open the 8L reservoir flow valve to release one drop every two or three seconds. Then, the change of pressure in the big reservoir automatically slows the dripping flow to a stop after a few hours (I estimate two to four hours).  For my small bottles, though, I open the valves to maximum until every clay pot is dripping abondantly (one minute is enough), then I ajust the flow to 1 drop per 2 or 3 seconds and close the valves 30 to 45 minutes later.

After supper, I make the same operations. I always make sure all valves are shut before going to sleep. My plants don’t seem to suffer from this schedule, but they are still small and it’s winter. The true test will come with summer heat, I guess.

Twice, I experienced leaving all of them without irrigation for 24 hours, and I couln’t see any difference. The 50-50 mixture of clay pellets and rock wool seems to work very well to keep a good moisture level.

Photo 2 : These new containers needed to be irrigated too, so they are positionned right under each existing column, but they also need to drain into a big bottom reservoir, big enough to collect the upper reservoirs’ whole contents.

Photos 3 and 4 : These terracotta pots came with their insides covered in a glazed coating as well as the other pots. But their draining hole is located on the side of the pots. Just perfect for what I had in mind ! First, I cut four lenghts (2,5 in. long) out of a very rigid straw (the kind of stick they use to tie a balloon on). I put some plumber tape ( white and very thin, my husband says it’s teflon) several layers around its middle to make it thicker and I wedged it in place in a screwing motion, through the draining hole. Then, I put aquarium silicone sealant around the straw and the draining hole, inside and out. I experienced leaking problems, so I had to make touch-ups to seal them completely.  Finally I connected the straw to a lenght of 1/4″ blue silicone tubing (bought in the aquarium section in my neighborhood’s pet shop).

Photos 5 and 6 : I put the pots on their shelf and directed the tubing down into the plastic bucket sitting under the shelf. (I still need to find a neet way to secure these tubes so they won’t get out of the bucket inaverdently and spill water on the floor.)

Photo 7 : The story of a mistake. My first attempt at collecting water involved these big tubes. I put two of the small blue tubes inside this big one, trying to imitate the draining system on a washing machine. But the blue tubes ran horizontally before plunging vertically into the big transparent tube and the water level inside the terracotta pots would have to build up to about 2 inches high before gathering enough pressure to push its way through the blue tubes. It made a sudden flushing effect and when both containers were flushing at about the same time, the water would flow back up the transparent tube and spill on the floor. Only then did I figure out a most obvious and simple way to make things work. Now, the draining is almost instantaneous. Only a couple spoonfuls of water sit at the bottom of the pot before the water drains.

Photos 8, 9 and 10 : As a next step, I wanted to isolate my plants’ roots from the entrance of the draining tube. I didn’t want to take the chance of clogging it. So, I needed a container inside the pots, and I had to make sure it would not block the water’s evacuation. I used two different methods to make a “platform” in order to raise up the containers a little. First, I cut three slices off a cork and layed them down the bottom of one of the square clay pots. In the other, I cut the bottom part of a strawberry plastic crate and put it upside down in the square pot, making a side notch to give room to the tubing.

Both pots drain well, so if nothing nasty develops on the corks,  I’ll replace the plastic crate with cork.

Photo 11 to 14 : For the inside pots, I found these 2,5 in. “earth-friendly, biodegradable pots, made of compressed straw, rice husk and bamboo, taking one year to degrade after exposure to elements. ” 37 cents each at Walmart. I would rather find permanent pots, but I wanted to avoid plastic, so I’m buying myself some time with these ( I figure at least six months).  I used a square of geotextile material to line the inside of the pot. It will prevent the roots from reaching the draining tube, hopefully. I then filled the pot with 50% wool rock (including 2 cubes hosting each a sprout) and 50% clay pellets, and finally, I cut the excess geotextile.

Photos 15 and 16 : Four plants in place : one Buttercrunch lettuce and one parsley in the left container. I figure I have plenty of time to eat the lettuce before the parsley is fully grown. One question, though : will the remaining roots of the lettuce develop into a problem for the parsley or affect badly the water’s quality ?  In the second pot, same strategy : one lettuce and one nasturtium. I needed to train a mesh from under the pot above, because the distance is too big between both pots and the drops of water were splashing around. It was necessary to do the same elsewhere in my windowfarm because the developping foliage can divert the water outside the pot, sometimes.  I discovered that leaving some mesh to lie on the clay pellets distributes the moisture much more evenly on the pellets. But I’m not sure it’s necessary anyway. The only drawback is that with the meshing, the water makes no more dripping sound. Snif.

Photos 17 and 18 : An update on my peas and lettuce growth. The photo of the peas is overexposed, sorry.

Blog update: 2nd column, airlift pictures

3:42 pm in Completed Window Farms, made from scratch (without a kit), Materials and Resources, Uncategorized, Version 3.0 Modular Airlift Columns by BionicMel

Hello!

I just wanted to link my new blog post that describes the building of my second column. I used different materials this time.

There is also a few pictures of my airlift set up, hopefully this will help anyone who is having trouble setting up their airlift.

http://melissawindowfarm.blogspot.com/2011/03/setting-up-my-second-column-week-3.html

Thanks,

Melissa