Since flowering plants need different nutrients, do most people have separate columns for each? For example - tomatoes, peas, snap beans, peppers in their own column, and lettuce, dill, cilantro, herbs, plants you don’t want flowering in another column? Thank you.
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Hello. Two questions here:
#1 The stalks on my tomato plans are very dark. I wouldn’t think twice about it, but the plant that has the darkest stem seems to “wilt” out on me a lot. It recuperates very quickly. With an extra soaking and maybe a little less sunshine. But I was wondering if it might be a precursor to an impending major fail? I’ve also noticed that the bottom leaves are getting brown spots. Any thoughts? Maybe too much nutrient. It just dawned on me that each time I fill my reservoir, I use water that has nutrients in it. Should I be adding fresh water when I make up for evaporation? Or add treated water every time?
Otherwise, the plants are doing beautifully…I think?
#2 Do people separate their columns into plants that need blossoming nutrients and those that don’t? For example, I want my tomato & green bean plant to blossom, but not my lettuce, or cilantro. It seems like those plants should be in separate columns?
Updated entry: Here is a better image of Septoria Leaf Spot from Iowa State U Plant Diagnostic Clinic. Septoria Leaf Spot is another fungal disease that attacks tomato leaves, especially the lower leaves of plants. Like many other tomato leaf diseases, it requires wet leaves for spores to germinate, so avoiding overhead watering can help prevent the disease.
My system is pretty much a ‘light-weight’ compared to so many of the amazing four, to six column set-ups I’ve seen here. But it’s a start. Tomatoes and Cilantro. Am transferring lettuce this weekend. And I’ve really appreciated the instructions, pix and examples I’ve seen here on this site. It feels so good to complete one column from finish to start. I’m looking forward to adding more columns as the summer goes on. Peace out all.
The lettuce seed package said they wouldn’t germinate in this warm weather.
Butter lettuce sprouts. My green onions and sugar snap beans are still hiding.
I’m a little surprised the green onions are taking so long.
My name is Nikolai Popov, I live in Russia, in Siberia in Novosibirsk. We have six month long winter, and I use to grow plants on my window sill.
My window farm stays on the windowsill, uses the light from the window, runs from aquarium air pump, but frankly speaking it’s not a Windowfarm. Its is a homemade ebb & flow system driven by air from aquarium pump. I have three years experience growing various plants in it, and I will be happy to share what I know about hydroponics on a window sill.
Here is what my windowsill looks like right now:
Each pot houses 4 smaller pots with plants. Roots are very compact in substrate – clay pebbles, or coco coir. Nutrition solution is inside the pots, compressor is on the left, timer is not visible here.
Nutritions I use are: Flora Series from GHE or a mixture of calcium nitrate and low-nitrogen nutrition with micro-elements.
Plants are: from left to right: basil, mint, parsley; tomatoes; roses and rosemary; chillies, poinsettia and Melissa.
11:35 am in Completed Window Farms, made from scratch (without a kit), Materials and Resources, Plants, pumps, R&D-I-Y, Starting Seeds, Uncategorized, Version 3.0 Modular Airlift Columns, Water flow by Matt
Here, I am going to highlight the nitty-gritty parts of the operation.
For the resevoir exit, I drilled a hole in a rubbermaid and secured a small piece of tubing into it with some waterproof caulk. This small piece of tubing is then connected to the rest of the line by that funny white connecter doo-dad. Having a removable connection point makes cleaning very easy.
I find that I don’t necessarily need a check valve since the T-joint is significantly lower than the pump. I used to have one check valve for each line, but I found that the check valve restricted the one line quite a bit, so I removed it. After doing that, I found that the check valve line was much quieter. It seems that without the valve, I experience the gurgling noise. Hmmm
A very simple setup here. The resevoir is about a foot above the T-joint. This creates more than enough pressure, even when the water level is quite low. After the T, the flexible tubing continues for about a foot and then connects to the rigid tubing. To make this connection, all I had to do was shove the flexible tubing into the rigid tubing. No leaks! Easy.
Here’s the top of the farm. I used zip ties to secure the rigid tubing to the chain. To get the coiled up, rigid tubing to straighten out, I boiled some water and syphoned it through the tubing. This allowed me to bend it and straighten it with ease.
I used to have some serious gurgling sounds. I found that by lowering the T-joint, I was able to get rid of them. No need for a silencer. The key is to make sure your tubing has lots of water running up it at one time.
One thing I really like about using these chains is that I can adjust the height of my pots at any time without disturbing the others.
Here is the bottom of one of the pots. You can see the net cups full of clay balls through the holes on the bottom. I thought I would have to plug up some of these holes so that water wouldnt be dripping everywhere, but (luckily) I was wrong! By hanging the pots on a slant (see gallery), the water only drips out of one of the holes! This is another nice feature of the chain. I can change the angle or direction of slope for any pot at any time. So, what did I do about the bottom pot?…
For the last pot in the line, I poked a hole in a plastic bag, taped a piece of rigid tubing to it, and shoved a piece of flexible tubing in it. The tube connects straight back to the top of the resevoir. The net cup sits in the plastic bag. This is a simple solution that works like a charm. You can also see that the pot is hung at an angle.
I have finally completed my windowfarm, and transferred my baby plants! So far it was neat watching the plants grow from seeds. I hope they bear fruit. I have 2 spinach plants, 2 different tomatoe plants, 3brocolli plants, and 3 mint plants, and 1 lettuce plant! I used the air T-lift system to get the water pumped to the top.
I started growing three tomato plants in my windowfarm using maxsea 16-16-16 plant food and started to notice that a portion of the stem is purple and the underside of the first two leaves are purple. The new leaves on the top are perfectly green. I read that this is evidence of a phosphorous deficiency. I was a little conservative with the amount of plant food I was adding in the beginning but I’ve recently been using a 1 teaspoon/gallon of maxsea 16-16-16 in a purified water solution. Is it wise to add a phosphorous supplement solution to my reservoir?! I also have my pump watering non-stop.
My plants have grown a lot lately.
The paprika, tomato and chilli are getting so big that they almost cover each other and now I´m worried that they won´t get enough sunlight. I am considering cutting off the tops of the plants (to make them shorter and more stable) but on some online gardening communities they say that that is a bad idea because it makes the harvest late. But is that a problem? The windowfarm is indoors and I don´t mind waiting.Are there other reasons not to?
Do or don´t? Any suggestions?
My window farm is doing so well! The plants have taken over my window. I did a rough count and had 40 tomatoes growing! Check out my video below.