We built a starter window farm earlier this year, and now I’d like to build a bigger one to cover the entire window. (I actually have a really huge window.)

But I’m having trouble understanding the assembly instructions for plumbing, specifically at and after bottle cap assembly (methods A, B, and C).  At the end of the instructions for each method, it ends with putting the other end of the airline tube into the pump.

I must have missed something or am not understanding how this works, but if you have four or more columns, how do they share one pump? In the full assembly picture, it looks like each doesn’t plug into the pump but rather into something with a loop above it. I can’t seem to find mention of this in the instructions.

Can someone please enlighten me?

Hi everybody !

It took me a couple of weeks of thinking, and a whole weekend to work out everything, but there it is. My sailboat windowfarm is now working on a regulated dripping system since… 5 hours. This one is not plastic-free, but it is electricity-free and if everything works out as planned, the dripping flow will be entirely automated… in between the moments I choose to close it (since there is no timer either on this installation).

By the way, Brian, I tried twice to send you a comment on your last post (Easy way to attach a T-Joint…), because I had a few questions, but nothing would pass. I posted another comment to someone else and it passed. So I don’t know what I did wrong or if you blocked the receiving of comments by mistake. Anyway, thanks a lot for your explanations and drawings. It made things a lot easier.

I’m still looking for a mainly non plastic dripping system for my clay pot windowfarm, so I may come back to the emitter valve (if I can find one somewhere) and glass or metal containers, but this one is my practice, servicing my all plastic sailboat windowfarm.

Photo 1 : While looking for an emitter in my local hydroponic store, the salesman directed me right to this product (which is intended for animal water tanks). At 22,99$ (Canadian), I couldn’t resist long, as he didn’t have the emitter and didn’t seem to know exactly what I was talking about. It ressembles a toilet float valve, only much more compact. The brand name is Little Giant, item number TM825, by Miller Manufacturing co. Glencoe, MN.

Photo 2 : Here’s one of the plans provided with the thing. It’s easy enough to assemble. You fix the red floater to the black housing with a “cotter pin”, you tighten your brackets to the black housing with two short screws, and later, you use two long screws to thighen the whole thing to the side of your reservoir. You have a washer to put down into the mouth where a garden hose will be screwed up (standard 3/4″).  That’s about it for the stuff provided in the box.

Photos 3 and 4 : I still needed other components though. I spent another 10 box on the rest. As I wasn’t just about to use a 10 foot garden hose, I needed to mount one much shorter. So I bought an adaptator (on photo 3, it’s the grey plastic part just under the yellow hose) between the 6″ bit of yellow garden hose that I used and the float valve (in black), and then another adaptator (on photo 4, it’s the black part) between the upper reservoir (a cheap plastic container that I had to pierce a round hole into) and the garden hose. Finally, I placed two of these plumbing metal necks (I don’t know their name in English) over both junctions to insure watertitghness. By the way, the green electric wire is just there to keep the garden hose bent down, because I was tight on vertical space. I only had 12″ vertical clearance. Now that the hose adapted in it’s place, I won’t need the wire anymore. With that bent in the middle of the garden hose, I was afraid to block the water’s flow, but thankfully, it just slows it down.

Photo 5 : I used a flimsy plastic container made of half a kitty litter container. It doesn’t show on the photo, but I put a small piece of wood between the container’s exterior side and the float valve brackets so both long screws could set onto it. It makes everything more tighten at the same time. The container is only 4 1/2″ deep. I think it’s just the minimum to make the float work properly (if you don’t need a fast refill).

Photo 6 : Here’s a view of the whole installation. the principles are quite simple. You have two reservoirs, one on top of the other. The upper reservoir will empty out gradually. The bottom reservoir acts like a buffer, because the float valve regulates the intake of water and keeps this reservoir always at the exact same level. This way, the water pressure in the bottom reservoir is alway the same, so you can adjust your dripping valve once and the water flow will remain constant until your upper reservoir is empty. In that event, the float valve reservoir would then start to empty itself and from that point, your water flow would not be even anymore, slowing gradually. One end of my drop-by-drop tubing is maintained at the bottom of the reservoir with a rock, just like in the previous system. The tubing runs over the edge of the tank, so I didn’t have to pierce any hole to drive the tubing through the container’s side. It lowers the risks of leaking, which is to greatly please me, considering the position of all this water just above my dictionnaries LOL ! The white plastic bottle neck is simply a piece I cut out and squeezed under the black float valve to stabilize it. It doesn’t get in the way of the red floater (which you cannot see on this photo, because at that moment, it was in its upper position, inside the black housing, shutting the flow of water).

There’s at least one drawback on this installation : it won’t be that easy to dismount it to clean up every component. I could not find the proper parts that would have allowed me to separate the two tanks in a jiffy. I tried with metal garden hose connectors, but it kept leaking, so I brought everything back to the hardware store to get a refund.  Next time, maybe ?

Photo 7 – 8 – 9 :  To make the installation a little tidier, I used an old wooden crate to put the float valve reservoir in it. It also acts às a support for the upper reservoir. It’s too long for nothing (about a third too long), but it’s 12″ wide, just the exact depth of my shelf. My instatallation is barely under 12″ high, so it almost scratches the upper shelf. But I can draw the whole installation a little outward (so it sticks out about an inch) and it becomes very easy to refill the upper reservoir (photos 8 and 9).

Photo 10 : A view of the whole thing. You’ll notice that my highest bottle is at least a foot lower than the shelf where the float valve reservoir is sitting. I think it’s the reason why I can get away with the water pressure given by less than 2 ” of water depth in that reservoir. Otherwise, the resistance in my tubing would be too high to let the water flow freely, possibly. It would be different if my reservoirs would be directly over the windowfarm, but the ceiling clearance is not sufficient to allow me such an installation.

Just before publishing this article, I noticed that the drip rate is at roughly one drop every 4,5 seconds. Five hours ago, I settled it at one drop every 2,5 seconds, so it slowed down very gradually. But it’s my drop-to-drop ajustment valve that is the culprit, I’m sure of it (it’ this small white thing on the tubing, with a red adjustment wheel on photo 10). The water level in the float-valve reservoir didn’t move a millimeter. I’ll give you an update on that.

As I succeeded in sending a first communication, here’s the information about my experiment. As I said,  two weeks ago, I constructed a starter system that could allow me to get familiarized with all this first hand. I didn’t use the plans provided on the site, just browsed around, read a lot,thought a lot and observed. The funny thing is that, besides the need to buy hydroton, I didn’t spend one dime on my small and crude installation. Here is what I used so far :

. 1   2L soda bottle

.1   1L soda bottle

.1  1L Pedialite bottle (an oral electrolyte maintenance solution to prevent dehydration during diarrhea and which is also very effective to stop heartburns as well, by the way). The bottle is nicely square and I could open four windows in it, one on each side. But the plastic is not entirely transparent. Rather a smoky white. It’s the bottle at the bottom of the line.

. 1 tubing for slowdrip enteral feeding (my students are mentally and physically disabled and some can’t feed themselves by their mouths, so this kind of tubing is very abundant in our recycling bin and never comes in direct contact with the person, just with the feeding solution). See third photo. The product is american. Don’t know its cost, but it should be quite affordable.

. 1  4L ice cream container as a top reservoir (see the top shelve in the 2nd photo)

. 1 small rock to anchor the tubing to the bottom of the reservoir. See second photo.

. 1 metal container as bottom reservoir (it’s coated with a cooked layer, but I don’t remember how it’s called). See at the bottom of the system in the second photo.

. 3 plastic flower pots instead of net pots (the type you find in gardening centers when you buy baby perennials. The plastic of the cheapest ones is very thin and so flimsy you can compress them into the bottles without breaking them. Poking holes or cutting slits in the sides is also very easy.) I didn’t post any photo.

. Instead of hydroton, I thought of using my husband’s old glass marbles collection from childhood days, but since we want to give them to our grandson eventually, I refrained from that. Glass is inert, after all, and the marbles are the right size, but then I realized how hydroton is light-weighted, how it absorbs water and is full of small holes, so I don’t think marbles would be a good substitute after all. Besides, hydroton is quite cheap.

. For making a dark room, I simply used an old paper bag from a boutique. The exterior layer (the side with the store’s logo on it) was black, so I put that side inside to face the roots, showing only the regular brown paper layer.

. To suspend the whole thing, my husband gave me a roll of electric wiring that was gattering dust in the basement. It’s copper covered with black plastic and should be very sturdy. Each bottle was then secured with gardening metal wire covered with plastic as well.

My first experiment to make water run through the system was with the small 600mL feeding reservoir you can see on the third photo, put directly over the line of bottles (fine, since it comes with a nice handle to suspend it). But the water pressure doesn’t ensure a regular flow. This means that you have to ajust the flow with the clamp about every hour. And after three hours, the bottle was empty. That’s why I came up with the 4L (1 gallon) reservoir. The flow is much more regular, needing adjustment only every 18 to 24 hours. Plus, it lasted 72 hours before coming to a halt. Much better.

I’m currently trying other experiments to see how the system can be improved and I’ll come back to you with this.

This is what I have so far. I started from seed. They are sprouting well, except the cilantro which hasn’t yet. I just added the correct amount of nutrients to the reservoir for a gallon tank(this is after first week of constant water circulation). What do I do now? Do I keep the pump on? Should I look at a PH guide for these specific veggies? Even get a meter? I’m a newb. HELP! My windowfarm update 1.1.11

Hey everyone, I just built my first V2 airlift system and I thought I’d share some pictures and tips for those of you who are thinking about building one yourself.  I made a pdf and hosted it on mediafire via the link below:

http://www.mediafire.com/?z0f3vlr93db7iku

It occurred to me the other day that terracotta pots would be a good container for a window farm for the following reasons:

1. They already have a wide top opening and a center hole in the bottom.
2. Terracotta is a tough material that won’t degrade when exposed to sunlight or water.
3. They are opaque which will discourage algae growth.

The disadvantages are:

1. They are heavy, unless you use plastic flower pots.
2. They reduce the amount of recycled material used in construction.
3. Terracotta can chip, crack, or break, which would cause leaks.

DIYers: plumb in a household reverse osmosis (RO) water filter system in hours.

How to choose, size, connect and maintain a filter adequate for your needs.

Reverse osmosis home filtration systems provide large volumes of pure, clean, color- and odor-free water for people, pets and plants. A “hard wired” RO hyperfiltration unit is a convenience easily within reach of the average DIYer.

A domestic DIY-ready RO system typically consists of several components, often sold as a kit along with an installation instruction manual:

1. Filter Array—four to six filters mounted on a hangable metal housing. Units with more filters deliver slightly cleaner water. All the filters in the array are pre-connected by the manufacturer, so hookup is a snap. An automatic shutoff valve is usually part of the array.
2. Holding tank—a 3 to 6 gallon capacity pressurized vessel that stores filtered water ready to flow to a sink- or counter-mounted faucet. Until direct flow systems hit the market recently, the RO process has been too slow to instantly provide a gallon or two of filtered water, hence the need for a tank. Tankless direct flow units are pricier.
3. Faucet mounted in a convenient location, usually on the kitchen sink.
4. 1/4″ plastic hoses to connect the filter array to feed water and to the faucet, and for waste water discharge
5. Feed water valve: either self-piercing saddle type, identical to an ice maker supply setup that taps into a water pipe; or a ball valve installed in-line in the riser tube of a sink’s cold water supply.

How RO System Filters Purify Water

Water flows through the filters in the array and is successively cleaned in “stages” as follows:

* Stage 1 Prefilter, 1 – 5 micron—removes sediment, suspended rust and sand.
* Stage 2 Prefilter, granular activated carbon (GAC) 1 to 5 micron—removes most chlorine, organic chemicals, taste, color and odor.
* Stage 3 Prefilter, either a second GAC or an activated carbon block, 1 to 5 micron—further removes chemical entities Stage 2 filter missed.
* Stage 4 Filter, osmotic membrane—the workhorse filter that gives the system its name. Removes 92% to 98% of all remaining chemicals and dissolved solids in tap water.
* Stage 5 Postfilter, deionization (DI)—removes remaining dissolved solids. Premium systems have 2 of these when ultra pure water is needed for aquariums, hydroponics and laboratories.

Selecting a Reverse Osmosis System: How Large?

The EPA estimates that the average adult consumes 2.0 L (about 1/2 gallon) of drinking water per day. Choose an RO system with a filtration capacity sufficient to meet typical family needs and “surges” like parties that require extra water for coffee, drink mixes and the like. A unit that generates 3 GPH (gallons per hour) has about the same capacity as one rated at 75 GPD (gallons per day), and is large enough for most households.
RO System Pre-Installation Considerations

1. Many RO systems require a minimum water pressure of 40 psi. Booster pumps are available if pressure is a problem.
2. Consider a whole-house filter, ahead of the RO unit, if incoming municipal or well water is unusually turbid or rusty.
3. Choose a spot for the filter array (approximately 18” H x 18” W x 8” D) that’s easy to access, since the unit needs to be serviced twice a year. If the undersink area is too small to stand or hang the array, consider a basement, utility room, etc.
4. Select a location for the holding tank (approximately 18” H x 12” W x 12” D). It can be spotted anywhere up to 30 feet away from the filter unit.
5. If there’s no available kitchen sink-top hole to install the added separate purified water faucet, replace the kitchen faucet with a pullout spray head model to free up the sprayer hole. Alternatively, drill a new dedicated hole in the countertop or sink. Careful: porcelain, marble, granite and some composites may shatter or crack unless a specialty drill bit and proper technique are used.
6. Supplies needed: common hand tools and perhaps an electric drill; Teflon thread paste or tape; extra 1/4″ plastic tubing for longer runs and cable ties to dress up the job; a basin wrench to reach up to faucet nuts under the sink; flashlight; wall or cabinet anchor screw hardware.

Step-by-Step: How to Install the RO System

1. First install the faucet (often the most difficult part of the project) on or near the sink. A basin wrench often comes in handy here.
2. Run 1/4″ tubing from the faucet to where the filter array will be spotted.
3. Mount the filter array where desired. Place a drip pan under it to catch inevitable small leaks.
4. Place the storage tank in desired location.
5. Connect the feed water valve to a cold (not hot!) water line and run tubing to the filter array.
6. Run a water discharge line from the filter array to a floor drain or utility sink; or into a sink drainpipe above the trap via a saddle usually supplied in RO “kits.”
7. Connect the storage tank to the filter array.
8. Check all hoses and fittings per the instruction manual. With the faucet open and the valve on the storage tank closed, open the feed water valve. Recheck fittings and eliminate leaks.
9. When water flows from the faucet, close it, open the storage tank valve, and let the system “charge” for several hours. When clean water has filled the tank the system usually shuts off automatically. Charging is complete when water stops flowing from the discharge tube.
10. Purge the system: open the faucet and let the water run down the drain until only a dribble emerges. This step rids the system of any residual debris.
11. Close the faucet and let the system recharge. Enjoy clean water!

How To Maintain the Reverse Osmosis System

Except for the osmotic membrane, which lasts two to three years, change out filters approximately every 6 months or 6,000 gallons. The stage 1 paper prefilter usually fouls faster than the others. To save money, obtain an extra filter and clean the dirty one instead of replacing it with a new one.

Written by: the Mad Farmers at SAN DIEGO HYDROPONICS AND ORGANICS

http://www.facebook.com/emilykristajohnson?ref=hpbday&pub=2386512837#!/notes/san-diego-hydroponics-organics/how-to-install-a-reverse-osmosis-system/121065994576138

I’m considering making my bottom reservoir with an assembly of old soy milk cartons. (I have a window sill that it can sit on.) However, one of the soy milk cartons I’m using wasn’t cleaned out properly, and had some mold growing on it. I was able to scrub most of it off, but I’m afraid trace amounts of mold are left. I could use some sort of cleaner (vinegar would probably be my choice) to get rid of it, but I’m not sure if introducing that (would it leave trace amounts?) would be any better than the mold in the first place.

So my question is: how sensitive are the plants to what the water may be in contact with? Is there something I should do to minimize any risk, or should I just abandon this idea?

This gets way nerdy on the pump/plumbing of the Reservoir System. Beware. If you are super nerdy, this is where you can jump in and start making this system better!!

Your reservoir system is a liquid circuit controlled by a pump on a timer. The pump needs to only pump water, not air. Running a water pump dry will kill it. The relationship between the amount of time your pump is turned on by the timer and the gallons per minute flow of your pump dictates a minimum amount of water in your system and, therefore, a minimum size for a sewer pipe reservoir.

However, there is plenty to tinker with here.

Here are notes from my thinking when I wrote that part of the Reservoir system How-to. They are notes that I have not really edited, so ask questions if something is unclear,

Theoretically, let’s say our pump pumps 500gph. That’s about 8.3 gallons per minute. We have decided that we lose about 25% to the curve at the top of the reservoir, and we probably lose about 10% to any remainder at the bottom that is too low for the pump intake. That means that when the bottom reservoir is as full as it can be, only 65% of the water in the tube can actually cycle through the system. So, 65% has to be at least = 8.3 gallons, which means the total pipe capacity if completely full has to be 12.8 gallons.

The pipe formula is

length of pipe = volume in gallons/0.00432900433 x Pi x radiussquared

so when the radius is 4” for the sewer pipe with 1/8” thick walls, the minimum pipe length formula is

GPM/0.21759949= min pipe length

For this 500 GPH pump, minimum pipe length for a one-minute pump-on cycle with the timer we have recommended is

8.3/(0.00432900433 x 3.14159265 x 16)=

8.3/0.21759949

= 38.14”

and if you want it to rest inside the window sill, that has to have the pump length added to it, which puts us at more like 40”

A typical window is 36” wide. So:

1- Maybe we don’t need this fancy a pump because we are only pumping up about 4+- feet of head. Maybe we could find one that would fit inside the reservoir so we don’t have to suspend it outside.

2- If we still want to use this pump, we should have people make them wider than their windows and suspend them outside the windowframe.

3- ??

RESEARCH—

Ecoplus pumps correlated with head and cost are here: http://homeharvest.com/hydroponicpumpssubmersible.htm

(CAUTION: BE of these pumps-

(CAUTION: BE of these pumps-

by jayt