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AquaponicsLite v…3a? a few pics

12:52 am in made from scratch (without a kit), Materials and Resources, posts with pitcures! by danpowell

So, she’s running a beaut now.  I’ve got 3 columns of fish water running, and 1 of retail nutrient solution (I can get the name if you care.

I germinated seeds about 3 weeks ago, and now I’ve got all four columns running 2 very substantial bean plants each (last pics are from 10 days ago.  I’m afraid to look in the silver cube) and a mediocre pea plant.

I still haven’t put in the CO2 doping yet.  TOmorrow?  So.. .

That's aluminized plastic (cheap emergency heat blanket) around the frame. Keeps the light nice and bright inside.

Tired…

I’ll type more about what you’re looking at soon.  Promise!  I’ve just been putting this off so long I have to do something.

Step by step construction of my Clay Pots (terracotta) Windowfarm

11:29 pm in Materials and Resources, posts with pitcures!, Projects in Process by Louise from Quebec

Few ! It seems it took me as much time to post this one as to build the real thing. But here it is.  I wanted to make a plastic-free windowfarm that would be appealing to the eye and would blend nicely with our Victorian house, from the inside as well as from the outside. (In French, I like to call it “potager vertical” – vertical vegetable garden).

I wanted a sustainable system, sturdy, easy to handle and that I could easily push away from the window, just like shutters.  At first, I envisioned to pump up the water with an airlift system and maybe l’ll come back to the idea, after all. But having free access to those slow drip tubes made me dream of an electric-free system as well. And how about autonomy : a system that would run by itself or with very few maintenance for up to five or six days ?

Finally, I wanted to nourish my plants with the manure from my earthworm composter.

In the beginnings of my experimentation, my slow-drip system  allowed me 3 to 4 days of autonomy, providing that I readjusted the dripping flow once or twice a day. But then, I discovered that  my plants didn’t need as much water (I have rock wool in my pots as well as clay pellets). So, I’m slowing the flow and closing it off completely during the night. That way, I expect to make my upper reservoirs last for more than seven days before having to refill them (with fresh water and nutrients – the old water will be fed to my ornemental plants, which are planted in soil).

No splashing problems so far : My pots are only 5” to 6” apart, one under the other. Each drop don’t gather enough speed to explode into many droplets and splash everywhere. Also, to direct each drop towards the middle of the pot right under it, I took a Hydroton pellet of just the right size and blocked up the draining hole of the pots with it, making sure that it would protrude outside of (under) the pot. The droplets then gather at the lower part of the clay pellet and are therefore nicely centered before making their dive into the next level of the installation. Eventually, I suspect I will have to introduce a mesh between the clay pellet and the pot’s hole (a short shoe lace should do the thing) to prevent the plants’ foliage from diverting the flow of water outside the pots. We’ll see…

When you click on photos, you have further explanations. After the photos, you’ll find a list of materials and a few more explanations.


The tools I used : hammer, screwdriver, long-nose plier, nail.

MATERIAL DESCRIPTION – QUANTITIES – MEASUREMENTS PRICE
Glazed clay pots – Home Depot My window pane is 30” wide and I figured it allowed me 4 columns of pots.

It’s 60” high : so I could put up to 5 pots high (maybe 6 if I manage to put another pot right under the bottom pot of the column and sitting right over the collecting reservoir (I didn’t figure out that one yet)

4” wide : 5,79

5,5” wide : 7,99

(Canadian dollars)

Total 137,80 +tx

Electric Wire (grade 12-1) – Rona 4 lenghts of 160” each (twice the length of the window plus 40” to make loops acting as hooks for the pots).

The thing is rigid and therefore it gives a lot of stability to the whole structure, plus it’s so strong I won’t ever have to worry  about the weight.  It’s not easily deformable, so I can remove any pot in a jiffy without disturbing the rest of the structure, aside from a soft rocking movement.

1,10/metre

Total 13,20 +tx

Electric Wire – hook up wire 22 gauge solid 4 lenghts of 160” each plus 12” for each pot.

Total : about 35’

I use this small wire as an anchor to each pot’s collar, to stabilize the pots horizontally, so not much strength is required here.

Recycled material : free
Expanded clay pellets (hydroton)

Rock wool (Rockstone)

pH tester kit

Hydroton : 50L (I have enough for 4 or 5 more windowfarms like this one, but the stores in my area didn’t sell it in smaller quantities !)

1 package of 98 (2”) cubes

I’m trying a mix of 50% rock wool and 50% clay pellets, so my garden could withstand a few days without being watered. I got this idea from this post : November 22, 2010     Window Farms: An experiment in urban agriculture

By Stuart McPherson, Stewardship Co-ordinator, Evergreen Brick Works

Later, I’d like to try compacted coconut fibre instead of rock wool (if I can find some).

1 small bottle of testing solution + 1 empty flask.

Total for these 3 items together :

24,61 +tx

Swivel curtain rods They come in pairs with holding brackets and  8 screws. They extend to over 24” long each.

This model tends to bend a little under the pots weight (it’s designed to support curtains, after all), so I added a swivel bracket to make sure everything is strong enough.

Was given to me for free
Swivel bracket 1 – can hold up to 50 pounds.

Placed just in the middle of the window frame, it supports the extremities of the 2 rods.

4,99 +tx
Black electric tape A few inches is enough, utilized to block the telescopic arms of the curtain rods to the desired length. It came from my husband’s tool box.
Reservoirs Right now, I use different plastic containers and I’ll wait until I can find affordable non-plastic containers to replace them. All recycled material
¼” tubing for enteral feeding with built-in slow drip system (Kangaroo screw cap pump set, from Sherwood Medical – St-Louis / product number 8884-706800) 1 for each column – each is 100” long. This silicone tubing is medical material used to feed someone who cannot swallow any food. As no part of it comes in contact with the patient’s body or body fluids, it’s perfectly safe to reuse it to feed plants. Also, it’s designed to let drip a thick liquid full of nutrient particles, so no clogging problems! The slow drip system is efficient and versatile : you may obtain a steady  stream to flood your pots as well as one drop every 15 seconds, just enough to maintain humidity within the rock wool cube. The only drawback I discovered so far is that you have to either refill your reservoir daily, or adjust the clamp daily, as the gradually changing water level in your reservoir will change the dripping rate as well, eventually bringing it to a stop even when the reservoir is not yet empty. Recycled material

(I know it costs a few dollars for each tubing, but I don’t know if they sell it by unit somewhere)

1 rock as big as a fist for each upper reservoir I use it to anchor the tubing lines at the bottom of the reservoirs. For free,  I just brought back a souvenir from a nice walk in the wilderness !
1 or 2 wooden rods hanging from tea cup hooks. To prevent the bottom pots from slamming into the window pane by accident. Recycled from my old curtain installation
TOTAL COST 180,60$ CA +tx

Temporary covers for reservoirs and trials with slow drip system

10:11 pm in energy consumption, made from scratch (without a kit), posts with pitcures!, Projects in Process, questions, Seeking Advice by Louise from Quebec

Thanks for your suggestions and comments, everybody. I hastily made my reservoirs darker, but will have to address the issue more thoroughly in a near future. I used thick cardboard to make a niche for my upper reservoir and poster cardboard to cap the bottom one. Look at the photos.  Wouldn’t it be wise to cover the tubing as well, inside a sleeve of black fabric, for instance ?

I’m still looking into a sustainable pumpless system. I figure that I can live with the chore of climbing up once every three days to refill my upper reservoir. But I’d like to refine the design. And I thought about capillarity, this capacity of a spongy material to sip water up to a higher level. Still juggling with the idea. I have the habit to leave my plants at school with a very simple but very effective capillarity system to water them during Christmas vacations. By the way, I enrolled my younger daughter in this thinking process.

Meanwhile, I continued my experiments with the slow drip, utilizing the 600mL container, since I like the idea of suspending it directly above the plants. I doubled a simple string of unknown (synthetic) material, made a knot to tie its two ends together and squeezed the fold up into the silicone tubing. To my surprise, this slowed the flow  very significantly. (In my first attempt, using the enteral tubing with the slow drip system built in, the bottle was empty after 3 hours.) This last system lasted 84 hours (3 days and a half) during which it needed no intervention from my part.

But I think I might have been too successful in slowing the whole thing. I’m afraid the plants wouldn’t receive enough water.  So, I thought of coupling two 600mL bottles side by side, and join the two strings together to double the volume of water, which I’ll try out no later than tonight.

Which brings me to my question : does any of you out there can tell me approximately how much water you need to put through your system over a period of 24 hours to sustain your plants’ needs ? What would be your estimate ? And did I understand correctly when I read that people put their air pump on a timer to make it work only 15 minutes at a time ?

Last thing : Somebody gave me 2 swivel curtain rods, a few years ago, which I kept intending to use them for another project. I stumbled on them by chance while looking for something else. And I think they are just perfect for what I have in mind. I want to be able to get the whole window farm to get out of the way when I want to access my window. These rods move just like window shutters and their tubing is square, so we think that they would be strong enough to sustain the weight. I’m posting a photo and will certainly try them. Only need to figure out a way to stabilize the different columns of bottles at the bottom, possibly by tying them to a wooden rod suspended underneath the last row of bottles.

The dripper tracker option for no pump windowfarms

4:31 pm in Education, energy consumption, environmental impact, Help the project by testing this, How-Tos by Brian White

The dripper tracker is a simple waterclock that I made to turn a solar cooker reflector.

It has 2 parts. A little float valve to control water height in a container and a pinhole or valve on a tube to control water speed out of the float container.

Basically if water height in the container is the same all day the drip maintains the same speed all day.  In my version I used a hydroponics emitter  on a float to block off the water flow.  Someone else might use something completely different to achieve the same effect.  My original top container was a 5 gallon paint bucket and the waterlevel valve was in a becel margerine container.

The drip valve was an air control valve for an aquarium air stone.

The range of speeds available is large.  I used to calculate speed by adjusting the drip valve and measuring the flow  into a cup.  You get it close to what you want. Then you raise or lower the drip valve  to “fine tune” the speed.

If people are interested, I can draw more complicated versions too.

(For instance, you could have a waterclock independent of your hydroponics and that way the drip will be more reliable.

Diagram of the dripper

Windowfarm dripper for constant drip speed