Quantcast

You are browsing the archive for Plants.

My First Build!

3:03 am in made from scratch (without a kit), Other Cool Urban Ag. Stuff, Outside Farms, posts with pitcures! by Peter Boden

I just came across this site after watching the presentation on TED.  From what I’ve seen, this place and the ideas here are fantastic.

I wanted to share a system I build and have been using successfully.  Having seen the systems on this site, mine looks huge and clunky!

I live in Las Vegas, Nevada, which as most know, is very hot and dry throughout 9 months of the year.  I have a small yard, but no usable soil for growing a garden.  I don’t know much about gardening, but its something I’ve wanted to try.  My goal is to have a year round system that I can use to produce herbs, lettuce and other greens.

My system is a free standing, recirculating pump based system.  It has a reservoir full of nutrient solution that gets pumped up to a system of PVC pipes.  The water flows through the top pipe and then down to then lower pipe, and so on, until draining back into the reservoir.

Each pipe contains four grow sites, spaced about a foot apart.  Each grow site has a net pot filled with clay pellets.

My Hydroponic System

My Hydroponic System

Before planting, I had started some beans, lettuce, tomatos, green onions and peas inside in a growth medium that I could easily transfer to the netpots.  You can see these small starts already planted in the photo above.  Below is a photo taken several weeks later.   I had since put a “green closet” (small green house) around the structure to help control temperature and filter out some of the intense sun.  The green house is made out of PVC pipe, made rigid with wood bracing and covered in 7 mil painters plastic.  In the photo below, you can see that the tomato plants are taking off, peas are doing ok and the onions and lettuce are still slow to get going.

Progress!

Progress!

All of my starts did not take off.  My beans did not survive at all, and all but one lettuce plant died.  I attribute this to planting too soon, before the starts had developed good roots.

Here’s a shot of the root system for one of the tomato plants:

Roots

Tomato Plant Roots

These roots actually started to become an issue.  They started to grow so much that they would block the pipes and cause water to back up in the system.  A little bit of a “hair cut” fixed that (for a little while…)

It's a jungle in there!

It's a jungle in there!

The above photo was taken just a week ago.  The tomato plants by far had grown the most.  So much, that I had to remove a few plants do to their roots blocking up the pipes, and to allow for the other plants to get more light.  I have since added string support for the plants to cling on to.

We’ve been using the green onions and lettuce to make salads for 6 (two adults and 4 kids) several nights now. Below is photo of one of those plants, which we’ve been cutting leaves off of for a while.  They just keep growing back…

Lettuce

Lettuce

 

Below is shot that shows how dense the roots get on the tomato plants.  This is a pot I removed to thin out the garden.

Dense roots!

Dense roots!

 

All in all its been a good experiment, and I can’t wait to build my next system, refining my ideas.  Hopefully the information on this site and its users can help me out.

 

Pete

 

by florian

Update on my farm

12:00 am in International, posts with pitcures!, Projects in Process by florian

New Pictures:

I took some more pictures of my farm as it’s evolved. The reservoir, airlift and lighting are the biggest changes. I also included some detailed shots of materials I’ve used.

My reservoir is suspended from the steel wires that hold my bottles and stabilizes the whole thing. It's 2 centimeters above ground.

This shows my happy beans and thriving tomatoes. They really seem to like the led's I installed.

 

This is my version of the pulser pump. It works best of all the attempts I undertook.

These are the different sizes of tubing used in the pulser pump. The brand is Gardena

 

 

The check valve. I found this in an aquarium store

 

detail of the suspended reservoir

top of the farm, they sure love that bulb :)

as they grow too close to the bulbs, they burn their leaves even though there's hardly any heat emitted by the led's

 

Hi all

I have quite some experience with my farm so far which I’d like to share. As you can see from the picture, it grew. I now have 8 containers made from 2l fanta bottles with net pots in them. The reservoir is made from an Ikea container named Rationell. They make it from recyled plastic bottles. It has a lid that closes perfectly and blocks out any light. The airlift tubes are wrapped around a net pot and sunk into the reservoir by a stone i put into the net pot. I have strawberries, peppers, cherry tomatoes and beans growing, the 2 remaining containers will get more tomatoes and another sort of beans. After experimenting with wine bottles and using a mixture of techniques taken from @eloinen and @jamesnutter, I went back to plastic bottles, but keeping the 2mm steel cables for suspending the bottles. In my opinion, it looks beautiful and is incredibly sturdy. With the wine bottles, it all wasn’t holding together very well and I experienced quite some leakage. I had some ph problems with my old setup, but it all seems fine now.

Pump

I have my pump on a day timer. It runs for 15 minutes every 2 hours. It has a break between 1am and 7am. For the end and the start of the cycle, I let the pump run for 30 minutes.

Airlift

I have two individual t-joint airlifts installed. What I noticed is that they take a while before they start performing well when installed for the first time or after changing the water in the reservoir (i.e. they come out of the water). I guess this is due to air in wrong parts of the hoses. In the beginning, I always fiddled around with the installation because I thought something was wrong. However my finding is to just let it run for an hour or so and see if it sorts itself out.

Water exit on top

You may see on the pics that they’re not identical on the 2 columns. Actually this was unintended but proves as a good solution for my pepper. It doesn’t like to much water, and the short end shoots most of the water  on the bottles wall, making it flow down directly to the next bottle while only a few drops now and then actually get into the container.

Water and nutrients

I’m running my farm on some bought nutrients which seem to work fine. I change the water about every week to 10 days, checking the pH every now and then. It’s usually between 7.2 and 7.8. Once, I had it hitting 8, don’t know why and after a water change it never happened again.

Fortunately, we don’t have chlorine in tap water here in Switzerland, so no need to air it out first.

On my to-do list:

  • Adding lighting. I ordered a 20W solar kit with a battery, charger, alternating-current converter and a bunch of red-and-blue LED growing bulbs which should arrive any day now. I want my garden to be independent from the power grid. It is quite an investment and I will have to grow a lot of veggies for a return on investment. But for me, it makes no sense having to buy a lot of electricity to grow plants.
  • Starting a worm-tea manufacturing process.

Edit: I put a lot of info in the pic’s descriptions, but don’t know why it’s not displaying. Anyone know what went wrong?

planning questions about good plants

11:00 pm in Plants, questions, Seeking Advice by JulySundryGrandeur

Hi! I want to have a window farm in the future and I have three big questions to ask for planning. I know I’m a bit rambly, so if you’re a lazy reader, the first bit of #1 is the most important.

1: What plants have you successfully grown and harvested for several months? Everywhere I look, I see people reporting on what they STARTED planting as an experiment, and maybe on what grew fastest right away or one specific problem they had, and then people seem to go silent. Window farms are a lot of time and — despite what some people say — money, for me to spend on a one month experiment. Meanwhile people are talking about things like strawberries, which I thought needed bees in order to even produce fruit. And beans, see below. Some people explain why simple leafy plants do the best, while others talk about getting complete nutrition out of their farms. I know your luck is not my luck, but what do you know can actually produce food in one of these things six months on?

2: Some foods, like cucumbers and big tomatoes, are kinda heavy. One guy is even trying watermelon! Do you have problems with towers falling over or bottles sliding sideways from the weight? Or does the weight of everything else (like the growing…pebble thingies and support beams) usually make the weight of the food itself irrelevant? Building is already complicated for me because plastic drink bottles are the one kind of container which no one I know ever buys. Later on, I’ll probably make another big post asking about all the materials I DO have.

3: Bean plants. I know nothing of them. How much food do they actually make? Since I know there’s quite a variety, let’s limit it for now to things that are non-toxic when undercooked (I AM going to undercook them at some point, I promise you), and fairly easy to find seeds for offline in the US.

Come to think of it, has anyone ever tried to make a list or database of common plants and how they do in windowfarms? It would be tedious, and handy.

North facing window

11:19 pm in Getting Started, Plants, questions, Seeking Advice by Emily Schulman

I am currently setting up my first windowfarm, and only have North facing windows.  Does anyone have suggestions of plants that have done well in low light conditions?  OR, is it necessary for me to add lamps?

Thanks!  I’m really excited to get started!

by Laura

Just getting started…a couple questions on what to grow and painting bottles

12:14 pm in Getting Started, Plants, Seeking Advice by Laura

Hello. I just received my kit and have begun getting my window farm together. A couple questions…

I spray painted the sections of the water bottles with a couple of coats of white primer. Though I can not see through it, when I put my hand behind the bottle, I can see the shadow of my fingers. Is this enough coverage to prevent damage to the roots?

Also, what are some good and productive plants to grow? I would like to stick with vegetables.  Are peas, bean, cherry tomatoes, baby squash too difficult to grow as they are bigger plants? Also, what types of lettuces would be good to grow? Ideally, I would like continuous growing (so I would pick some and they will continue to regenerate or grow as) as opposed to heads that I would pick and then have to replant.  I am thinking of growing swiss chard, arugula, and kale for sure, possibly bok choy, and the items I listed above. Basically, any help, advice, or tips would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks.

Windowfarm: Genesis through Month Three

6:38 pm in Completed Window Farms, kits, Starting Seeds by Allison Casey

Hello, fellow Windowfarmers!


It’s my inaugural post on these pages, to share the story of my three-month-old farm.


An advance warning: this will almost certainly be a little lengthy… For the visually-inclined, I’ve uploaded some accompanying pictures.


Chapter 1: Seedlings


We decided to build a Windowfarm at my workplace last summer, and were one of the first on board when the kits first went on sale. The kit (Classic 4-column and bottles) arrived in August, and I ordered a huge selection of seeds from Burpee to coincide (at the time I didn’t realize the kit itself comes with enough seeds to start the farm).


Growing seedlings… is not the easiest thing in the world. The first time around I set myself up with an ice cube tray, where I put maybe an eighth-inch of hydrogen peroxide and filled the rest with water. I made little labels for each variety of plant I was growing (all leafy things — a few types of lettuce, chard, bok choy, basil, spinach…) and dropped a few seeds for each into the mix.


Unable to find any real instructions for how long to leave the seeds in the mixture, that first time I left them in for almost the entire workday, then inserted them into Flora Plugs and put the tray in a cupboard (seeds like the dark). A few days later, I started to see some green!


As the sprouts sprouted I moved them to a second ice cube tray on a windowsill, and watered accordingly.


Well… until the weekend.


I somehow naïvely had it in my mind that these little seedlings were a little more resilient than was actually the case, and didn’t stop by the office to tend to them on Saturday. When I finally dragged myself in on Sunday afternoon it became apparent that the window I’d chosen absolutely baked in the early afternoon, and the entire tray was bone-dry and quite dead.


So, a bit of a failure there.


By the time I managed to try again, it was early January. This time I decided to grow the seeds at home to make it a little easier to be at their beck and call, and this was when I hit my stride.


Two main changes here: leaving the seeds in the hydrogen peroxide mixture all day seemed a little excessive (these things grow all on their own in nature, right?), so this time I stuck with about a half an hour — and found no difference at all in sprout rate (both times I planted 16 plants and got 15 sprouts). I also bought a daylight-colored compact fluourescent lamp and reassigned my desk lamp to grow-light duty.


Keeping the seedlings under close light for roughly 18 hours each day, after about four weeks I had some short, bushy little plants that were ready for their next phase of life.


Chapter II: Farm Building


This was… an adventure.


The kit makes the assembly of the farm fairly straightforward and easy, so I’m only going to touch on the points where I struggled or had to improvise.


First of all, mounting. This is about the only area where the kit leaves you hanging (no pun intended!), as there are about a million different variations of how best to do it, depending largely on what you’re drilling into.


Instead of putting the hooks directly into the ceiling of the windowsill (crumbly sheetrock, in my case), I ended up buying a piece of 1×4 wood the length of the window and mounting that with screws (and wall anchors) and L-brackets on either end. (I do not want this thing to fall. Ever.) This method allowed some flexibility (and room for error) in the placement of the hooks, which can be screwed directly into the wood.


I highly, highly recommend taking on this phase of the project with a second set of hands, and ideally one of you will be somewhat familiar with the basic construction-ish type skills that such an endeavor requires. I managed to get through it on my own (with a couple of consulting calls to a friend with more experience hanging stuff than me), but it probably took two hours longer than was actually necessary, and I was a cursing, sweating mess by the end of it.


Chapter III: Time to Turn it On


So. The thing is built and mounted. Transplanting the seedlings is pretty dang simple (especially if you’ve used the Flora pods and don’t have to worry about washing soil off), and they’re now nestled their net cups and bottles. Things are looking good.


I go to add water to the reservoir bottles, and every single one of them starts to leak. Profusely.


Bummer. Major bummer. Taking apart the needle mechanism and tightening every piece helped, but didn’t completely stop the leak. I went out and bought some supplemental sealing washers (probably not the technical term…) to seal it better, which helped a little bit more but still fell short of a complete fix. Finally I ended up using silicon sealant and applying it to the outside of the mechanism (it probably would be more effective inside the bottle cap, but I didn’t really want it leeching into the water supply), and after letting it dry overnight the leaks finally stopped. Were I to do this all over from scratch, I would probably spend a bit of time tweaking that part of the design.


I then ran into trouble getting the water in each column to make it all the way to the top, even after playing around with pump pressure. More specifically, three of the four columns needed a bit of romancing to actually start working. For two of them, just messing around with the alignment of the tubes  ended up working — once they were a little straighter or adjusted just… so… they were fine and allowed the water go all the way up.


For the third nitpicky column, I ended up finding that the tubes can have two different ends: either it closes off a little from the full diameter (I imagine these ends were melted slightly by the manufacturer to get a clean, easy cut), or they are completely open, exactly the width of the tube diameter. For my last column, this slight narrowing of the path was enough that none of the water was making it through the top of the tube, where pressure is lowest. By flipping it around so the tube was open on top, I was able to fix the problem and get the water flowing.


Chapter IV: Thoughts of a “Seasoned” Farmer


First of all, this is not exactly a “green” endeavor. CFLs have turned out to make the difference between a lackluster, limp, disapointing farm and one with vibrant, viable plants. I have two columns of two lights and really could use a third set for the bottom row of plants, and all of these are on for 18 hours a day. It uses a fair amount of energy. Whether it’s really offset by the leafy greens you’re bringing into the world and the more sustainable life you’re now living… well, who knows. Personally I think the novelty factor tips the scale in favor of the farm, but the hardcore environmentalist might not agree.


Speaking of lights, once I decided to add them to the farm, I went the pin-socket route. These things are great and cheap, but I had to manually scrape away the rubber insulation with an x-acto knife to expose the wire where the pins were going to hit — the pins are supposed to poke through on their own, but in my case they didn’t. Just something to keep in mind if they don’t immediately work.


Be very, very careful that the bottle caps don’t clog with algae or other gunk. This became an issue about two months after launching, and resulted in a backup of water in the base of some of the higher bottles, which led to overflowing when we topped off the reservoirs (it took about a week to figure out what was going on) and the dehydration of some of the lower plants. It was a huge pain to take care of. Next time I take the thing apart I’ll probably cut the openings so they’re a little bit bigger and less likely to clog.


I have had particularly excellent success with bok choy, basil, and chard. Romaine lettuce also grows well, and I believe my buttercrunch and simpson lettuce would have been good growers had they not fallen victim to a system malfunction that ended in a bit of a tragedy for one full column. I had terrible luck with rosemary and avon spinach, and after an initial growth spurt, my pea plant seems to have lost the will to live. I have younger cucumber, sage, tomato, and kale plants that are all looking very good, but aren’t yet harvestable, so their jury is technically still out.


Several of my plants were sowed in soil then transplanted into the hydroton pellets, and this transition actually went much better than expected — perhaps even smoother than the plants started in flora pods.


Some of the modifications shared on this community look like they offer great improvements in terms of aesthetics or functionality; the kit leads to a functional farm, but it looks a little science-fair-esque. Fixed mounting and tubes and nicer bottles might allow for a more professional-looking and slightly easier-to-manage system, and I would recommend considering them if you’re starting from scratch.


And if I were to start from scratch, I would do just that — I wouldn’t go with a kit. I appreciated having it as a guide for my first build, but I think I’d be too inclined to tweak the second time around to find it useful.


As one final thought, this thing is a lot of work. It requires active involvement and observation and maintenance. Troubleshooting takes quite a bit of brainpower and know-how, and I’m still very much working toward a stable system full of thriving plants. Generally speaking, it’s not something you can just check in on once or twice a week.


That said, I love the Farm. It looks awesome, there is a crazy sense of achievement at growing plants from seed to the point where they’re edible (especially here in NYC), and visitors love it. I’ve learned a lot, and there’s of course the certain sense of pride when someone sees it for the first time and goes, “Holy cow, what is that?!” If you can devote the time, energy, and resources, I highly recommend taking one on for yourself.


And so it begins!

3:04 pm in Getting Started, Uncategorized by Morgan Miranda

So I built my 2.0 window farm. Finding actual 1.5L bottles was nigh impossible here in Iowa City. However I did find two Evian bottles (and the net cups fit perfectly). For the third I used a Fuji water bottle, but because it was too wide, I put two net cups together (I used two zip ties to tie the bottoms to gether so one net cup could hold the clay pebbles and the other could act as a pedestal. I planted brussel sprouts, cherry tomatoes, and basil in regular soil pellets, and they are coming up nicely. I am a little concerned about whether I need to transplant them to more soil so they can get bigger before I set them in the bottles. Any suggestions?

Also, I have had some problems with the paint chipping off the bottles. I used just regular spray paint, and one has no problems, but the other two have areas that are just crumbling off. Insight?

Update on my recovering windowfarm

11:00 pm in Nutrients, Plants, posts with pitcures!, Projects in Process by Louise from Quebec

Hi !

Eight weeks ago, I presented you what I now call my sailboat windowfarm. Seven weeks ago I was presenting you my clay pot windowfarm.

Then, I explained in detail my pH imbalance adventure, telling you that I lost several plants in the process. Now, I’d like to show you the survivors. Here they are. First photo : My sailboat windowfarm suffered a much smaller scale pH imbalance. Its growth was interrupted and one of the pole beans lost two leaves to it, that’s all. On the first storey : 2 pole beans, second storey : 2 nasturtiums, third storey : 2 cherry tomatoes.

Second photo : a close-up of the biggest leaves on the pole beans.

Third photo : my clay pot windowfarm is still half empty and the spinach and thyme will get out soon. The two center columns are connected to their own reservoir. They are designated home for all flowering plants and may receive a special blooming nutrients formula. The two outer columns are designated for leaf crops only.

Following photos : watercress started from cuttings, surviving lettuce, blooming peas and baby cucumber.

Update on pH imbalance : the mystery slowly unfolds

9:41 pm in Nutrients, Plants, questions by Louise from Quebec

Hi, everybody !

After several plant casualties, my windowfarm is recovering from its pH fever. The lettuce survived and started to grow again, as the nasturtium, three basils and most of the peas (these lasts started to flower, as a matter of fact. Beside a thorough clean-up,  the only thing I did for those survivors was to entirely change the composition of their nutrient solution.

So, right now, my upper reservoirs contain water from the tap (pH 7, has been sitting at least 24 hours to let chlorine evaporate before use) and an organic nutrient bought at the Hydroponic store : Iguana Juice Grow (it automatically gets the water pH down to 5,5 but smells like dead fish – really awful since it gets the room smelly at times). Take note that my system is working on gravitation, so I have to refill the reservoirs by hand, something I need to do about every four to eight days, usually, depending on the dripping flow. Therefore, the water doesn’t recirculates in the system unless I decide to reuse the contents of the bottom reservoir.

So, I started anew in one column, cleaning up everything, boiling the clay pellets, discarding the old rock wool and using fresh nutrient solution with Iguana Juice and my worm compost tea. Then I monitered the pH very closely.

Here is what I discovered :

1. My precious worm compost tea has a pH over 8,5 ! I never thought of testing it before my plants started to suffer very seriously. I always tested my pH after mixing in the nutrients and a few milliliters of vinegar to start with. Take note that within one column of my surviving plants, the pH would rise from 5,5 at the source up to 8,5+ in the bottom reservoir.

In the new column, the same phenomenom was observed, but to a much smaller extent (pH at 7 in the end). So, I stopped everything again and dumped the water solution to get rid of the worm tea.

Hypothesis : I use, from time to time, egg shells to protect my worm compost from too much acidity. Obviously, I overdid it. And I think that microscopic eggshell particles lodged themselves within the rock wool, very slowly dissolving into the dripping water flow, thus affecting its pH.

2. Even after my stopping from using worm compost tea, the pH in the reservoirs still has a tendency to slowly (within 4 days) go back up from 5,5 to 7 right inside the upper reservoirs (therefore, it does that without getting in contact with the plants or the wool rock, or eggshell particles).

Hypothesis : there could be in the city water a kind of pH stabilization agent that would slowly raise it back up. But I think that I can manage this imbalance by readjusting the pH every other day.

In the meanwhile, I isolated 50 of my worms in a new container to start a new compost farm. I will monitor its pH very closely to try to produce a worm tea with a pH of 6 or 6,5 at the most without any eggshells in it.

I intend to leave the two old columns as they are (with the old rock wool and the surviving plants), to see if the pH alteration effect wears off. The two other columns will receive new plants in new rock wool, and no worm tea will enter in my nutrient mixture until it has a more suitable pH reading !

All this thrilling mystery is fascinating and I have the feeling that I learn a little more everyday, although it was heartbreaking to see my plants die and quite panicking not to have a clue as why.

I’ll keep you posted.

pH and nutrients imbalance issue

10:33 pm in Nutrients, Plants, Seeking Advice, Uncategorized by Louise from Quebec

Hi, everyone.
This post is about difficulties and problems. So, feel welcome to give your advice !
I’m starting to discover that vinegar seems to be unreliable, looking like it balanced the pH, but some of its effects being only temporary.
Also, clearly, my nutrient solution’s nitrogen content wasn’t sufficient. An issue that I was aware of to a certain point, but that I didn’t take time to address.
I gave my plants alternately worm compost juice (letting the compost macerate in dechlorinated water  for a few days, then filtering the resulting tea) and organic seaweed fertilizer. Both are low in nitrogen. As a result, my two plants of bean have yellowing leaves and while some plants are growing fine, others are very slow to grow.
So, after documenting myself on internet, I opted for a bold solution : to use my own urine to supplement the nitrogen deficiency in my nutrient. Somebody on this site mentionned urea as a mean of controlling pH.
I was familiar with the use of urine in agriculture and gardening, and I use it very successfully every spring as a 100% efficient treatment to prevent mildew on phloxes. But I was a little shy to use it indoors.
I’ve been adding 1 part of filtered urine to 10 parts of water, adding also seaweed nutrient (2 teaspoons for every liter of water) and also 2 cups of nettle tea, because I felt the urge to give my plant something strong after their starvation. The urea helped getting the pH down by the way.

During the first 12 hours or so on this diet, I made a stupid mistake in adjusting the flow of dripping on my two central columns and my whole new 3,5 L reservoir emptied itself in a few hours, drenching the poor plants with my horse remedy. Poor things. When I came back from work that evening, some of the leaves on my peas displayed white spots. I concluded that my solution was burning my plants, so I rapidly cut the solution in two by adding fresh dechlorinated water to it in each of my reservoirs.

So now, we’re talking about 1 : 10 solution of urea. Three days later, my peas seem to be OK and I could swear that my plants are starting to get bigger again. It’s a little soon to be so enthousiastic, though. But I’ll tell you if I was dellusional !

Meanwhile, I still have to adjust my pH daily to try to keep it down around 6. And I don’t know, but it seems to me that needing a daily pH adjustment isn’t the norm for windowfarmers. Next post, I’ll try to add photos.