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Children’s Aquaponic window farm

2:01 pm in Completed Window Farms, Getting Started, posts with pitcures! by Meg Stout

Finally sufficiently done with our aquaponic windowfarm to post a youtube tour of our set-up:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8zq7T6QNrc4

It’s taken a bit of investment to get to this point, but I think I could pull one of these together for $40 (a bit more because of the fish aspect), and last weekend we gave one of these as a birthday gift to one of my pre-teen’s friends.

I’ve got two kids with good windows for this, so will post another video when I get the second windowfarm up and running.

Innovations:

  1. Used an alternative method to perform the airlift, based on a post I saw here – my lift uses the ball inflation needles to inject water into the air hose instead of the other way around.
  2. I use the “silencer” at the top of the drip line to support the weight of the assembly. It serves a decorative purpose (finial) and makes it crazy easy to support the whole assembly from a single near-vertical nail in the window casing. I don’t need to use any other supports given the exact 1″ hole I was able to drill into the bottom of each bottle.
  3. I used double-sided velcro strips to fasten the tubing going up.
  4. I used a 1/4″ OD tubing (short length, angle cut on exit) to control the drip. Don’t actually know if that’s a great idea, but I didn’t want the water splashing the windows and some plants supposedly don’t like getting watered “directly.”
  5. I just use 1/4″ OD tubing from the lowest bottle to guide the return water back to the fish tank.
  6. I use one of the variable control air splitters to ensure both the air lift and the air stone get enough air pressure.
  7. I used a hole punch to round the corners of each “grow hole,” of which I cut 2 in each bottle. The “square” holes allowed me to get a jig into the bottles for a nice drilling support, so getting the 1″ holes drilled in the bottom of the bottles was a breeze.

We’ll see in a few weeks whether some of these “innovations” were really dumb ideas…

by Rama

Our Hydroponic Window farm experience

1:49 am in Completed Window Farms, Education, Materials and Resources, posts with pitcures! by Rama

This is a summary of our build and experience so far.

Our window frame measures 75” x 31” so we thought two columns with five rows (ten containers total) would work well. We decided to use the recommended 1.5 liter water bottles for the containers, but instead of cutting one outlet per bottle, we decided to cut two on opposite sides and have two plants in each container. Each column is attached to a single wire cable that hangs from its own plant hook, loops through the bottom container, and back up. Wood dowels are inserted through each bottle (except bottom bottle) and alligator clamps hot glued to the wood dowels attach to the wire cable. Duct tape covers the bottom of the bottles to prevent the roots from drying out and minimize algae and mold growth. Rather than filling the net pots with clay pellets and then inserting the pot into the bottle, we eliminated the net cups, filled each bottle with the clay pellets, and the plants go directly into the bottles.

 

After reading about other farms, we first decided to go with the upper and lower reservoir system utilizing a water pump. After getting our supplies, the next step was to set up the watering system. We soon realized that to pump water over six feet vertically was going to require a heavy duty and more expensive water pump. We returned to Home Depot to purchase a fountain pump capable of 400GPH at 1’ lift, with a maximum lift of 7.3’ at $40.00. We then realized that due to the size of the pump, it would have to sit outside of our bottom reservoir, meaning we were going to have to consider the sealing aspect of our system to prevent water leakage. Our other thoughts about the water pump were the noise of the pump, the power usage, and fear of running the pump dry, which would mean we would have to go to a clear bottom reservoir to know when the water level was getting low to shut the pump off. With all of this adding up, we decided to ditch the water pump system, and move to the air pump system.

We purchased a Top Fin Air Pump 4000 with two adjustable airflow outlets for use with up to 80 gallon aquariums. Without looking at any diagrams or suggestions for the air lift system, we started experimenting with different ways to get the system to work. After days and days of different setups, numerous trips to Home Depot and PetSmart purchasing and returning products, and frustration beyond belief, we finally broke down and read other posts on the setup. After reviewing the recommended airlift setup and combining what we had already learned, and a bit by accident, we came up with a new airlift setup that works incredibly well and reduces gurgling. See our diagram below. As others have mentioned, the depth of the water is the greatest factor in achieving lift. Our bottom reservoir is a glass cylinder measuring only 4” diameter, however, the container stands 13.5” tall. When this is filled to 9.5” the max lift we recorded was 5’ 4”. When filled full at 13.25” we achieve an 8’ 3” lift, though 7’ 3” appears to be the optimal level for this water depth. Also as others have stated, keeping the air lift tube as straight as possible, especially into the reservoir helps achieve better lift.

What is excellent about the air lift system (once working) over the water pump system is the reduced cost of the setup, simplistic design and setup eliminating the top reservoir and having to seal and water proof the system, virtually noise free (no loud water pump), not having to worry about running the pump dry and damaging the unit, and the reduced operational cost (water pump consumes 80.5Watts versus air pump at 3.5Watts). Not only this, but the water pump system also suggests using an air pump in addition to the water pump to aerate the water so it does not become stagnant and reduces mold/algae from standing water in the bottom reservoir.

Our Plants

We decided to grow strawberries in 8 of the 10 containers, and peas in the other 2.  Using clay pellets with no soil, we purchased organic plant nutrient (liquid form) that says it is designed for soil and soilless gardens. We mixed the recommended amount of nutrients to water and filled our reservoir. During the day we would leave the air pump running and the water/nutrient solution would trickle down through our plants, and turn the pump off at night. Everyday we added about ¾ cups water due to plant use and evaporation. After about 4 days our mixture had become clearer indicating a higher water base than nutrient. Though our peas are fine, the strawberries after about the fourth day began to show a little black on the ends of the leaves, and after six days, some of the leaves were yellowing. What is interesting is that the strawberries closer to the top of the window farm show little to no signs of the discoloration. This indicates that the problem might be from a lack of nutrients to the lower strawberries.

We found out several things and are currently correcting those to see if it makes any changes. First, although the nutrient mixture said it was for soilless systems, this apparently refers to mulch, and not hydroponics. It also contained only nitrogen, phosphorus, and potash, but no calcium or other minerals which we read can contribute to our problem. We have now switched over to a dedicated hydroponic nutrient formula containing calcium. We have also been told that consistent watering and then drying out can be harmful to the plants. We purchased a timer that turns the pump on 15 minutes of every hour during light, and 15 minutes every two hours when dark. We also purchased a pH tester, although we might also purchase a tester for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potash.

Below is a table of our materials and costs.  This is an approximate estimate and you will see it is a bit more than the $30 mentioned on the window farm web site:)

This list only shows what we are currently using. It does not take into account extra tubing, needles, miscellaneous aquarium supplies, and the first nutrient solution, as these were items we tried but did not end up using. 

Structural and System Costs

Item Description Cost
Water bottles Although you can find these recycled, we wanted to get going on our system and just purchased the bottles, plus we wanted them all uniform $1.70×10=$17
Ceiling hooks 2 pack $3
Wire cable Used for hanging the containers 78”x4=312”/12”=26’ 26’x$0.25≈$6
Duct tape For masking off the 1.5 liter bottles $3
Wood dowels Supports each 1.5 liter container $2
Alligator clips 6 pack. Attaches dowels to wire cable $3×4=$12
Clear tube For airlift tubing3/8”x1/4”x10’  qty2 $3×2=$6.00
Clear tube Standard aquarium tubing for air pump 10’ smallest they had. Needs to have 3/8” OD to fit tightly into airlift tube $3
Needles Ball pump inflation needles 2 pack $2
Air pump Top Fin 4000, 2 adjustable outlets, up to 80gallon aquariums $20
Glass container For bottom reservoir. 4” diameter x 13.5” high $10
Timer Hydro Farm single outlet 24 hour mechanical timer $14
Hot glue Attaches wood dowels to alligator clips, and helps seal some of the bottles from leaks $2
Total   $100

 

Plant and Formula Costs

Item Description Cost
Clay pellets Used instead of soil for hydroponic system $12
Plants 16 strawberry plants, 4 pea plants $20
Nutrient formula Canna Aqua Vega A: 5-0-3, and Canna Aqua Vega B: 0-3-4 $26
pH test kit Simple glass vile with pH solution $7
Total   $65

 

Total build cost = $165

Additional tools needed:

  • Hot glue gun
  • Drill with drill bits
  • Exacto knife
  • Scissors

Thanks for the fun adventure windowfarm.org

We will keep posting updates as our system grows!

WindowfarM

1:15 pm in Getting Started, Materials and Resources, posts with pitcures!, Projects in Process by samenrahmen

Okay, here’s a hint at what my little vertical patch will look like.  If I get all the glueing right…

A slightly different approach, one that will need only one straight piece of tubing from the pump to the top (bottom left to top left), and has a built-in reservoir.

The upper floors (3) are 63mm PVC-U, the reservoir is 90mm.

by Danelle

Starting out

5:32 pm in Getting Started, Materials and Resources, Projects in Process, questions by Danelle

I have been wanting to make a window farm for several months now, but I have some cash from a recent birthday, and I have decided to make an air lift system.

Got the tubing, zip ties, dowels and and tape for my first 3 plant air-lift system last night. Unfortunately, Menards didn’t have reinforced tubing in the right sizes, and the closest one had a really thick siding, and I was concerned that the air needles would be unable to puncture the tubing.

Instead, I’ll be using all vinyl tubes, and lots more plumbers tape. I have to get one more 1.5 litre bottle and a gallon bottle of water drunk, but it’s winter, so I should be hydrating myself more anyway.

Will there be any issues with not using reinforced tubing?  Will it all be ok?  Do I panic now, or later?

Sources for materials: online and in NYC

12:31 pm in Materials and Resources by Windowfarms

Hydroponic Supply Stores

For materials such as:
  • Pumps
  • 3″ Diameter Net Cups
  • Compost Sponges
  • Plants (or seeds!)
  • Clay Pebbles
  • Nutrient Solution

Homebrew Too (local)
14649 Horace Harding Expy

Flushing, NY 11367-1243

(718) 762-8880

New York Hydroponic Inc (local)
495 9th Ave

New York, NY 10018-4132

(212) 695-5768

nychydro.com

Home Harvest (online source)
http://www.homeharvest.com/

Hardware Supply Stores

For materials such as:
  • String or Fishing Line
  • Nails, Screws, hooks
  • Duct Tape, Paint or Thick Fabric
  • Tubing

Home Depot
28 W 23rd St # 1

New York, NY 10010-5260

(212) 929-9571

homedepot.com

Canal Rubber Supply Inc Co (local)
329 Canal St

New York, NY 10013-2513

(212) 226-7339

canalrubber.com

Ace Hardware of Tribeca (local and online source)
160 W Broadway
New York, NY 10013-3315
(212) 571-3788
acehardware.com

Pet Supply/Aquarium Stores

For materials such as:

  • Air Pump
  • Air stone
  • Drip Emitter valves

Petco Animal Supplies‎ (local and online source)
860 Broadway

New York, NY 10003

(212) 358-0692

petco.com

Petland Discounts
petlanddiscounts.com

Sporting Stores

For materials such as:

  • - x2 Air Tube/ Pump Adapters (for bubbler systems)

Paragon Sports Co LLC (local and online source)
867 Broadway

New York, NY 10003-1279

(212) 255-8889

paragonsports.com

The Sports Authority (local and online source)

636 6th Ave
New York, NY 10011
(212) 929-8971

sportsauthority.com

Art and Craft Supplies

Pearl Art & Craft Supply (local and online source)

308 Canal St
New York, NY 10013-2521
(212) 431-7932

pearlpaint.com

by rebecca

The First Window Farm

12:28 pm in Completed Window Farms, Featured Post by rebecca

firstfarm-illuBritta and I finished the first window farm prototype in her kitchen window in April. The system includes a pump in a bottom reservoir which is on a timer, to pump about 3 gallons of water/nutrient solution up to the top reservoir. The liquid then drips through the columns of water bottles that hold the plants.

We’ve listed each component below, and some of the lessons we learned.

The main components are:

  • Reservoir 1 (a 5 gallon bucket on the floor)
  • Water pump (orange)
  • Reservoir 2 (a tupperware container on a shelf above the window)
  • Large diameter tubing going up to fill Reservoir 2 (orange)
  • Small tubing to and from each vertical component
  • Clamps
  • Water bottles
  • Net cups with clay pellets
  • Covering for roots
  • Fishing Wire to suspend
  • CFL bulbs and covers
  • Light Timer
  • Air Pump
  • Second timer for pump

Scroll down for more details about each component. We have listed each component and ordering information on this site.

Reservoir 1 is a 5 gallon bucket on the floor with water and nutrient solution

firstfarm-1- 500+ gallon per hour pump of high quality which makes it quieter. You can go with a cheaper one if like this it will only turn on 3 times a day.

- There is a timer on the pump which turns on for 2 minutes every 8 hours. It fills Reservoir 2.

- Along with the pump, the reservoir also has an aquarium air bubbler in it to keep the water aerated or moving so it does not stagnate. This thing is a problem because it is loud. We should find quieter ones because it stays on all the time.

Parts in this area:

  • 5 gallon bucket
  • Water pump (500 gph)
  • Timer for pump with at least 3 on/off settings per day
  • Aquarium air bubbler and airline tubing
  • Tubing that fits water pump fitting (to go to reservoir 2)
  • Extension cord
  • Nutrient solution mixed with water

firstfarm-2Reservoir 2 above the window

- The reservoir is filled via the tube coming up from the pump in reservoir 1. The size of the tubing was determined by the fitting on the pump.

- The reservoir itself is a tupperware container we got at the hardware store. In the future we would look for something made out of thicker plastic so it is easier to put the plumbing connections into. This plastic was thin and difficult to drill clean holes into. Also, technically this should be an opaque container since nutrient solution should not be exposed to prolonged light, but we choose clear so we could see the nutrient level and color.

- We used brass pipe fittings to connect the tube to the reservoir. They included the barbed brass and yellow rubber you see on the right of this photo. You cannot see the other side of the fittings, where we used the female pipe fittings to tighten the connection on the inside of the reservoir.

- There are 5 tubes which come out of the reservoir.

- They are clamped down really hard so that the 3 gallons of water in the reservoir takes the whole 8 hours to drip through the system – so the plants are getting a constant drip.

- We’ve realized now that instead of clamping, the better solution would be to use much smaller tubing – probably 1/8th inch – to slow the water flow – instead of needing the clamp the tubes.

Parts in this area

  • 5 gallon tupperware container with lid
  • Shelf and brackets to mount container on above window
  • Barbed connectors to connect reservoir to tubing to plants, rubber O-rings and aquarium sealer
  • Clamps (although these might not be necessary if your tubing is much smaller than ours)

firstfarm-3Water Bottles

- The five tubes from Reservoir 2 extend into the top water bottles.

- The water bottles are suspended by 15 lb fishing wire tied to simple hooks drilled into the top of the window.

- The plants are in net cups, in clay pellets, resting in the water bottles, which, because of the ‘eco-shape’, are the perfect size for the net cups.

- Some of bottles have their caps on, with some holes drilled in the caps for the water to drip through. Another design we experimented with here has plastic martini glasses duct-taped to the bottles which have had their tops cut off.

firstfarm-4 firstfarm-5

- The water drips down through each plant and then to this tubing at the bottom, which brings the water solution back to the bucket reservoir.

- 6 100 Watt CFLs from Home depot in normal sockets. This may be overkill. However, in general the closer you can get the lights to the plants the more growth you can generate.

- Light Timer with 5 sockets goes on once a day and turns off once a day

firstfarm-6

These are some of the things we would change in the next version:

  • Find better plumbing components
  • Ian suggested using a chin up bar to suspend everything from at the top of the window to not have to drill the hooks
  • Gabriel points out that a cheaper alternative to a chin-up bar might be some threaded pipe from the hardware store. They sell metal pipe cut to length and threaded on the ends, which screws into plates that are screwed onto the window frame. So some holes in window frame, but only in two places vs. a series as with hooks. Very strong.
  • Remove the reservoir at the top and experiment with the pump so the water can go directly to the plants
  • Play with the lighting design so less light bleeds into the apartment and out the window
  • Find more flexible tubing for the bottom so that there’s not that large tube going to the reservoir
  • Use containers other than water bottles
  • Find a way to use coconut coir so it doesn’t clog the system
  • Look into using copper
  • Pump- cheaper? Non-electro?
  • Air pump- quieter? Non-electro?
  • Tubing adapters- easier?
  • Reservoir 2 attachments
  • Root covers- elegant?
  • Containers- alternatives, less labor
  • Wiring- Less messy
  • Clamps- cheaper
  • Suspension- Less invasive, more stable
  • Aeroponics?
  • Microgreens setup?
  • Lights- positioning? use less light by sensor switches? filtering less harsh on eyes inside? less light pollution outside?