I posted earlier about designing a prettier window farm. I’m now building a clean and simple single column farm, and I figured it might be about time to post something about my progress. The pots, suspension and drip pipes are mostly in place. The reservoir and the airlift are still in the works. I haven’t made up my mind yet about what kind of reservoir to use.

Part list:

• 4 Plastic orchid pots. These are made of Polypropylene, which is (afaik) safe to use with food. The pots also have an inward dent in the bottom, so they will never drain completely. I don’t know whether this is a good thing or a bad thing. Be careful when drilling plastic. I managed to break one pot by using too much pressure. (2 euros/pot at Bauhaus)
• 2 meters of aluminum pipe, 6 mm diameter. One meter for drip pipes and another for the air lift. (4 euros/meter at Bauhaus)
• Two meters of aluminum strip. Mine is about 12mm wide and 2mm thick. I wouldn’t go any thinner than 2mm, since the rigidity of the column would likely suffer. (4 euros/meter at Bauhaus)
• 4 gaskets for sealing the drip pipes. The ones I got seem to do the job pretty well: 17mm outer diameter, 5mm inner diameter, 4mm thick. (around 2 euros for a 4-pack)
• M3 Nuts, washers and screws (or bolts) for attaching the pots to the aluminum strip. (Less than 1e total)

Parts not installed yet:

• Sera Air 275R Plus air pump with adjustable air flow and two outlets. Came with two non-return valves. (28 euros at a local aquarium store)
• 6mm “colorless” air hose. It’s possible to stretch this over the aluminum pipe using pliers and some soap as lubricant. (2 euros / meter at a local aquarium store)

Still missing the reservoir and the airlift needle(s).

This is not the final assembly and you might notice that some of the drip pipes and pots are not straight. I’ll fix that before doing the actual planting. Originally I’d thought I’d have to glue the drip pipes to the pots, but with the gaskets in place and the hole being tight enough, I’m not sure if glue is necessary. It won’t matter anyway if the drip pipes are wet on the outside.

I was wondering though, should the downward water flow be somehow restrained so that the water drips down slowly? Now when I pour water in the top pot, most of the water has come down in less than a minute. How does it work in WF 3.0?

The wife said it looks alright. I might even get a permission to build a second column Stay tuned. The next step is building the airlift.

I have decided that I’m just going to buy the presta valves or the bike tubes that contain them. I just can’t figure out what to buy!

Will this work?

How about this?

What about this?

There seem to be different sizes and I don’t know one from another and it isn’t specified in the instructions.

Any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

I have been browsing many a seed catalogue, and I am sure that I’m going to buy a bajillion different kinds of seeds. Just to grow one plant of each variety… so…

Let’s swap seeds!!!

Is anyone else interested?

Hey everyone, I just built my first V2 airlift system and I thought I’d share some pictures and tips for those of you who are thinking about building one yourself.  I made a pdf and hosted it on mediafire via the link below:

http://www.mediafire.com/?z0f3vlr93db7iku

It occurred to me the other day that terracotta pots would be a good container for a window farm for the following reasons:

1. They already have a wide top opening and a center hole in the bottom.
2. Terracotta is a tough material that won’t degrade when exposed to sunlight or water.
3. They are opaque which will discourage algae growth.

The disadvantages are:

1. They are heavy, unless you use plastic flower pots.
2. They reduce the amount of recycled material used in construction.
3. Terracotta can chip, crack, or break, which would cause leaks.

I’d like to preface this post by saying that if these issues have been dealt with before or the solutions appear to be self-evident, please bear in mind I lived through the 1960′s. I think that says it all.

I am working from the ”new” 3-plant airlift sytem pdf file. I am in the process of assembling the items in the Materials List (ML) and have a few questions:

1. the ML requires 1 x 3/8 OD  – 1/4 ID Kuritec Reinforced

                                      2  x 1/4 OD – 1/8 ID vinyl tube

                                      1 x 3/8 OD – 1/4 ID (vinyl tube??)

      Step 6 of the assembly instructions tells me to, “fasten together the bottle stack, the rod, and the lift tube (3/8 ID rubber tube at 4’6″ long).”

Is the ML missing an item or is there a mis-print in Step 6?

2. The ML calls for 5 liters of clay pellets. I can fill a heck of a lot of 3″ diameter net cups with a 5 liter bag of pellets. Do I really need this amount?

3.  Should the vinyl tubing be clear or opaque? I’m thinking the tubing will be subject to “algae bloom” if it is clear. However, thinking is not one of my strong suits.

4. Does the size of the bottles used in the stack have to be 1.5 L? I didn’t realize that the 1.5 liter size was almost unheard of in this region, until i went looking for them.  

5. I don’t wish to seem critical but I have to say that the less than $30.00 cost estimate is way off target. In this little corner of the world, (Atlantic Canada), an air pump of the specifications detailed in the ML is going to run me about $35.00. A 1 liter (about 35 oz) container of hydroponic nutrients will run me the better part of  $25.00. (OK, they’re Canadian dollars but it’s all I’ve got to work with.) The actual cost really doesn’t matter to me, I like the concept. Plus anything that can give me fresh “sweet million” tomatoes in mid-winter is worth shelling out for.  However, I do feel that the stated cost estimate is a bit mis-leading.

Thanks in advance for the advice and assistance.

Ed

Finally sufficiently done with our aquaponic windowfarm to post a youtube tour of our set-up:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8zq7T6QNrc4

It’s taken a bit of investment to get to this point, but I think I could pull one of these together for $40 (a bit more because of the fish aspect), and last weekend we gave one of these as a birthday gift to one of my pre-teen’s friends.

I’ve got two kids with good windows for this, so will post another video when I get the second windowfarm up and running.

Innovations:

1. Used an alternative method to perform the airlift, based on a post I saw here – my lift uses the ball inflation needles to inject water into the air hose instead of the other way around.
2. I use the “silencer” at the top of the drip line to support the weight of the assembly. It serves a decorative purpose (finial) and makes it crazy easy to support the whole assembly from a single near-vertical nail in the window casing. I don’t need to use any other supports given the exact 1″ hole I was able to drill into the bottom of each bottle.
3. I used double-sided velcro strips to fasten the tubing going up.
4. I used a 1/4″ OD tubing (short length, angle cut on exit) to control the drip. Don’t actually know if that’s a great idea, but I didn’t want the water splashing the windows and some plants supposedly don’t like getting watered “directly.”
5. I just use 1/4″ OD tubing from the lowest bottle to guide the return water back to the fish tank.
6. I use one of the variable control air splitters to ensure both the air lift and the air stone get enough air pressure.
7. I used a hole punch to round the corners of each “grow hole,” of which I cut 2 in each bottle. The “square” holes allowed me to get a jig into the bottles for a nice drilling support, so getting the 1″ holes drilled in the bottom of the bottles was a breeze.

We’ll see in a few weeks whether some of these “innovations” were really dumb ideas…

This is a summary of our build and experience so far.

Our window frame measures 75” x 31” so we thought two columns with five rows (ten containers total) would work well. We decided to use the recommended 1.5 liter water bottles for the containers, but instead of cutting one outlet per bottle, we decided to cut two on opposite sides and have two plants in each container. Each column is attached to a single wire cable that hangs from its own plant hook, loops through the bottom container, and back up. Wood dowels are inserted through each bottle (except bottom bottle) and alligator clamps hot glued to the wood dowels attach to the wire cable. Duct tape covers the bottom of the bottles to prevent the roots from drying out and minimize algae and mold growth. Rather than filling the net pots with clay pellets and then inserting the pot into the bottle, we eliminated the net cups, filled each bottle with the clay pellets, and the plants go directly into the bottles.

After reading about other farms, we first decided to go with the upper and lower reservoir system utilizing a water pump. After getting our supplies, the next step was to set up the watering system. We soon realized that to pump water over six feet vertically was going to require a heavy duty and more expensive water pump. We returned to Home Depot to purchase a fountain pump capable of 400GPH at 1’ lift, with a maximum lift of 7.3’ at $40.00. We then realized that due to the size of the pump, it would have to sit outside of our bottom reservoir, meaning we were going to have to consider the sealing aspect of our system to prevent water leakage. Our other thoughts about the water pump were the noise of the pump, the power usage, and fear of running the pump dry, which would mean we would have to go to a clear bottom reservoir to know when the water level was getting low to shut the pump off. With all of this adding up, we decided to ditch the water pump system, and move to the air pump system.

We purchased a Top Fin Air Pump 4000 with two adjustable airflow outlets for use with up to 80 gallon aquariums. Without looking at any diagrams or suggestions for the air lift system, we started experimenting with different ways to get the system to work. After days and days of different setups, numerous trips to Home Depot and PetSmart purchasing and returning products, and frustration beyond belief, we finally broke down and read other posts on the setup. After reviewing the recommended airlift setup and combining what we had already learned, and a bit by accident, we came up with a new airlift setup that works incredibly well and reduces gurgling. See our diagram below. As others have mentioned, the depth of the water is the greatest factor in achieving lift. Our bottom reservoir is a glass cylinder measuring only 4” diameter, however, the container stands 13.5” tall. When this is filled to 9.5” the max lift we recorded was 5’ 4”. When filled full at 13.25” we achieve an 8’ 3” lift, though 7’ 3” appears to be the optimal level for this water depth. Also as others have stated, keeping the air lift tube as straight as possible, especially into the reservoir helps achieve better lift.

What is excellent about the air lift system (once working) over the water pump system is the reduced cost of the setup, simplistic design and setup eliminating the top reservoir and having to seal and water proof the system, virtually noise free (no loud water pump), not having to worry about running the pump dry and damaging the unit, and the reduced operational cost (water pump consumes 80.5Watts versus air pump at 3.5Watts). Not only this, but the water pump system also suggests using an air pump in addition to the water pump to aerate the water so it does not become stagnant and reduces mold/algae from standing water in the bottom reservoir.

Our Plants

We decided to grow strawberries in 8 of the 10 containers, and peas in the other 2.  Using clay pellets with no soil, we purchased organic plant nutrient (liquid form) that says it is designed for soil and soilless gardens. We mixed the recommended amount of nutrients to water and filled our reservoir. During the day we would leave the air pump running and the water/nutrient solution would trickle down through our plants, and turn the pump off at night. Everyday we added about ¾ cups water due to plant use and evaporation. After about 4 days our mixture had become clearer indicating a higher water base than nutrient. Though our peas are fine, the strawberries after about the fourth day began to show a little black on the ends of the leaves, and after six days, some of the leaves were yellowing. What is interesting is that the strawberries closer to the top of the window farm show little to no signs of the discoloration. This indicates that the problem might be from a lack of nutrients to the lower strawberries.

We found out several things and are currently correcting those to see if it makes any changes. First, although the nutrient mixture said it was for soilless systems, this apparently refers to mulch, and not hydroponics. It also contained only nitrogen, phosphorus, and potash, but no calcium or other minerals which we read can contribute to our problem. We have now switched over to a dedicated hydroponic nutrient formula containing calcium. We have also been told that consistent watering and then drying out can be harmful to the plants. We purchased a timer that turns the pump on 15 minutes of every hour during light, and 15 minutes every two hours when dark. We also purchased a pH tester, although we might also purchase a tester for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potash.

Below is a table of our materials and costs.  This is an approximate estimate and you will see it is a bit more than the $30 mentioned on the window farm web site:)

This list only shows what we are currently using. It does not take into account extra tubing, needles, miscellaneous aquarium supplies, and the first nutrient solution, as these were items we tried but did not end up using. 

Structural and System Costs

Plant and Formula Costs

Total build cost = $165

Additional tools needed:

• Hot glue gun
• Drill with drill bits
• Exacto knife
• Scissors

Thanks for the fun adventure windowfarm.org

We will keep posting updates as our system grows!

Okay, here’s a hint at what my little vertical patch will look like.  If I get all the glueing right…

A slightly different approach, one that will need only one straight piece of tubing from the pump to the top (bottom left to top left), and has a built-in reservoir.

The upper floors (3) are 63mm PVC-U, the reservoir is 90mm.