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The prettier(?) window farm – Construction

2:24 pm in Materials and Resources, posts with pitcures!, Projects in Process, questions by Mikko Mattila

I posted earlier about designing a prettier window farm. I’m now building a clean and simple single column farm, and I figured it might be about time to post something about my progress. The pots, suspension and drip pipes are mostly in place. The reservoir and the airlift are still in the works. I haven’t made up my mind yet about what kind of reservoir to use.

Part list:

  • 4 Plastic orchid pots. These are made of Polypropylene, which is (afaik) safe to use with food. The pots also have an inward dent in the bottom, so they will never drain completely. I don’t know whether this is a good thing or a bad thing. Be careful when drilling plastic. I managed to break one pot by using too much pressure. (2 euros/pot at Bauhaus)
  • 2 meters of aluminum pipe, 6 mm diameter. One meter for drip pipes and another for the air lift. (4 euros/meter at Bauhaus)
  • Two meters of aluminum strip. Mine is about 12mm wide and 2mm thick. I wouldn’t go any thinner than 2mm, since the rigidity of the column would likely suffer. (4 euros/meter at Bauhaus)
  • 4 gaskets for sealing the drip pipes. The ones I got seem to do the job pretty well: 17mm outer diameter, 5mm inner diameter, 4mm thick. (around 2 euros for a 4-pack)
  • M3 Nuts, washers and screws (or bolts) for attaching the pots to the aluminum strip. (Less than 1e total)

Parts not installed yet:

  • Sera Air 275R Plus air pump with adjustable air flow and two outlets. Came with two non-return valves. (28 euros at a local aquarium store)
  • 6mm “colorless” air hose. It’s possible to stretch this over the aluminum pipe using pliers and some soap as lubricant. (2 euros / meter at a local aquarium store)

Still missing the reservoir and the airlift needle(s).

    

This is not the final assembly and you might notice that some of the drip pipes and pots are not straight. I’ll fix that before doing the actual planting. Originally I’d thought I’d have to glue the drip pipes to the pots, but with the gaskets in place and the hole being tight enough, I’m not sure if glue is necessary. It won’t matter anyway if the drip pipes are wet on the outside.

I was wondering though, should the downward water flow be somehow restrained so that the water drips down slowly? Now when I pour water in the top pot, most of the water has come down in less than a minute. How does it work in WF 3.0?

The wife said it looks alright. I might even get a permission to build a second column ;) Stay tuned. The next step is building the airlift.

Improving the design for more polished looks

7:21 am in Getting Started, posts with pitcures!, Projects in Process, R&D-I-Y by Mikko Mattila

I’m about to build my first WF. While I generally love the idea of growing food at home, the free design of WF 3.0 is a bit of an eyesore as such. I wanted to come up with something that’ll still be a full grown window farm, but is still approved by the wife. ;)

Update: Second Draft

Thanks for the input everyone. I came up with a simpler less work intensive solution: flower pots. I went to a hardware store to look at PVC pipes, and stumbled upon some plastic orchid flower pots. They seemed right size and only cost 1,99 a piece, so I got two for testing. The pots have a dent in the bottom, kinda like wine bottles. See the drawing. This type of construction prevents the container from draining out completely. Not sure if this is a good thing or a bad thing.

I also decided to try string instead of metal wire, since I couldn’t find proper parts for attaching the wire to the pots. Here’s a picture with initial string based suspension:

   

 

Drawing:

 

First Draft

Here’s my first draft on an improved design. I didn’t bother drawing the irrigation system in detail since it’s not really important in this context. The main idea is that we’ll encase the water bottle, suspension system and the irrigation system in painted PVC pipe. Any other pipe should do as well. My first draft doesn’t depict how exactly the pipe and bottle are attached to the suspension system. I haven’t really made up my mind on how I should implement it. Anyway, the PVC pipe should be sort of fixed into the suspension wire system, while the bottle and the plant are easy to remove. It’s not really feasible to remove the pipe, since the wires and the irrigation hose run through the pipe.

 

 

Comments and improvement ideas welcome :)

See the next post for construction details and pics.

Animal-Proofing

10:27 pm in How-Tos, Seeking Advice, Version 1.0 Reservoir System, Version 2.0 airlift system, Version 3.0 Modular Airlift Columns by Matthew Cozier

Hi everyone

Was wondering what lengths people have gone to, to try and animal-proof or child-proof their window-garden systems!

by Rafi

Theories…

9:41 pm in Education, How-Tos, made from scratch (without a kit), Uncategorized by Rafi

seems like there are quite a few things i need to know B4 i start building the window farm…i could just go ahead and build it following the instructions but i wanna do some research first…

 

mainly on:

-Hydroponic systerms and its nutrient solutions

-Design and the nitty gritty details to customise it according to my window and the physics

PLANTS-its life! Therefore proper responsibility should be taken B4 i start up the farm

ima take my time with this….its gonna pay off for sure!!

 

How to set up a t-valve airlift.

1:52 am in How-Tos, made from scratch (without a kit), Materials and Resources, posts with pitcures!, Version 3.0 Modular Airlift Columns by Kevin Wells

First, some background. This is my first window farm. I have no prior experience in hydroponics, but have grown many aquatic plants. I started making a DIY window farm following the directions of a single-column, 5-bottle hanging V3 window farm. I found that the bicycle needle airlift method just was not as reliable as I had hoped. It would sometimes work, and other times, I would find it not working at all. I researched the site and found that others had set up a t-valve airlift, and it seemed like the way to go. The other guides did not seem to include all the information I needed to get it set up for myself, so I decided to try it anyway. Below, I’ll tell you what I used. I will also say that if this method seems ridiculously simple and it looks like it’s so short that I might be missing something, it’s because it is ridiculously simple and I’m not missing anything… I think.

Parts needed (in addition to the other parts used for the V3 hanging window farm):

Standard aquarium airline. I went with black silicone, because it looks nice and will stop algae from growing in the airline. I bought 25 feet, because it was cheap and I will probably use more when I add columns later.

T-valve. I purchased a metal t-valve from PetSmart. They have plastic ones for even cheaper.

Silicone glue. You want to make sure you get silicone glue that is 100% silicone. I got mine at a hardware store, but they also often carry this at pet stores/fish stores (for aquarium repair). The 100% silicone will ensure that there are no additives that could leak into your water and plants.

 

Steps taken to add the t-valve airlift to my V3 hanging window farm:

  1. To make the sport cap airline connector, first insert 1″ of airline into the sport cap of the water reservoir.
  2. Inside the sport cap, use the silicone glue to glue the airline in place. Make sure to form a complete seal. It must cure for at least 3 hours before you can get it wet. I recommend you let it cure for 24 hours before doing anything else with it.
  3. Measure/cut 1.5 feet of airline from the cap, and connect this to one of the two straight ends of the t-valve.
  4. Connect your airline from your air pump to the perpendicular end of the t-valve.
  5. Using your remaining airline, connect one end to the remaining straight end of the t-valve.
  6. Run this airline to the top of your window farm and into the top bottle. Secure using zip ties or what ever you prefer.
  7. ???
  8. PROFIT
Important note: You can’t see it in my photos, but my air pump is elevated above my water reservoir. This guarantees water will not siphon through my air pump, and negates any need for check valves. If your air pump is lower than your water reservoir, use a check valve on the airline coming from your air pump to the t-valve.

Look at my awesome diagrams:

I almost forgot to give credit where credit is due! Brian White, aka gaiatechnician, has very helpful videos on Youtube and his diagram helped me get started. Granted, I tweaked it to work best for me.

by florian

Update on my farm

12:00 am in International, posts with pitcures!, Projects in Process by florian

New Pictures:

I took some more pictures of my farm as it’s evolved. The reservoir, airlift and lighting are the biggest changes. I also included some detailed shots of materials I’ve used.

My reservoir is suspended from the steel wires that hold my bottles and stabilizes the whole thing. It's 2 centimeters above ground.

This shows my happy beans and thriving tomatoes. They really seem to like the led's I installed.

 

This is my version of the pulser pump. It works best of all the attempts I undertook.

These are the different sizes of tubing used in the pulser pump. The brand is Gardena

 

 

The check valve. I found this in an aquarium store

 

detail of the suspended reservoir

top of the farm, they sure love that bulb :)

as they grow too close to the bulbs, they burn their leaves even though there's hardly any heat emitted by the led's

 

Hi all

I have quite some experience with my farm so far which I’d like to share. As you can see from the picture, it grew. I now have 8 containers made from 2l fanta bottles with net pots in them. The reservoir is made from an Ikea container named Rationell. They make it from recyled plastic bottles. It has a lid that closes perfectly and blocks out any light. The airlift tubes are wrapped around a net pot and sunk into the reservoir by a stone i put into the net pot. I have strawberries, peppers, cherry tomatoes and beans growing, the 2 remaining containers will get more tomatoes and another sort of beans. After experimenting with wine bottles and using a mixture of techniques taken from @eloinen and @jamesnutter, I went back to plastic bottles, but keeping the 2mm steel cables for suspending the bottles. In my opinion, it looks beautiful and is incredibly sturdy. With the wine bottles, it all wasn’t holding together very well and I experienced quite some leakage. I had some ph problems with my old setup, but it all seems fine now.

Pump

I have my pump on a day timer. It runs for 15 minutes every 2 hours. It has a break between 1am and 7am. For the end and the start of the cycle, I let the pump run for 30 minutes.

Airlift

I have two individual t-joint airlifts installed. What I noticed is that they take a while before they start performing well when installed for the first time or after changing the water in the reservoir (i.e. they come out of the water). I guess this is due to air in wrong parts of the hoses. In the beginning, I always fiddled around with the installation because I thought something was wrong. However my finding is to just let it run for an hour or so and see if it sorts itself out.

Water exit on top

You may see on the pics that they’re not identical on the 2 columns. Actually this was unintended but proves as a good solution for my pepper. It doesn’t like to much water, and the short end shoots most of the water  on the bottles wall, making it flow down directly to the next bottle while only a few drops now and then actually get into the container.

Water and nutrients

I’m running my farm on some bought nutrients which seem to work fine. I change the water about every week to 10 days, checking the pH every now and then. It’s usually between 7.2 and 7.8. Once, I had it hitting 8, don’t know why and after a water change it never happened again.

Fortunately, we don’t have chlorine in tap water here in Switzerland, so no need to air it out first.

On my to-do list:

  • Adding lighting. I ordered a 20W solar kit with a battery, charger, alternating-current converter and a bunch of red-and-blue LED growing bulbs which should arrive any day now. I want my garden to be independent from the power grid. It is quite an investment and I will have to grow a lot of veggies for a return on investment. But for me, it makes no sense having to buy a lot of electricity to grow plants.
  • Starting a worm-tea manufacturing process.

Edit: I put a lot of info in the pic’s descriptions, but don’t know why it’s not displaying. Anyone know what went wrong?

by Daniel

Finishing the bottles of our giant windowfarm!

3:52 am in International, Materials and Resources, posts with pitcures!, Projects in Process, Uncategorized by Daniel

We’ve just finished all the bottles to our giant windowfarm that’s going to be hanging at Kulturhuset during June.

The rawmaterial to the windowfarm. 150 soda bottles.

We drilled holes in the bottom with a sawdrill. This gave us really nice equally round holes to fit the bottles in. We also cut out two holes for the plants since we’re going to plant double in some bottles and we want the plants to be visible from both sides. Instead of cutting the holes with a knife we used a soldering iron and melted the plastic into shape we wanted. This gave a really nice edge to the holes that’s a lot softer, rounder and kinder to the plants. I can really recommend it. We also made two small holes in the sides where the crossbars that are going to hold the bottles attached to the bars will go.

Hanging out the laundry.

We’re using two different types of bottles: 1,5 liter soda-bottles from Coca-cola that will hold the netcups and the plants and 0,5 liter Plantbottles, a new type of recyclable PET bottles that are partly made of organic materials which reduce the carbon footprint. The smaller bottles will not have plants in them but will be inserted in the columns so that the people looking at the windowfarm cen see the water dripping through the system.

After this we cleaned all the bottles, hung them out to dry and started painting. We dipped the bottles in paint to get a even coat and minimum hassle with spill on to the parts of the bottles that shouldn’t be painted. We chose a nice gray colour that will make the green from the plants stand out! After that all we had to do was watch the paint dry…

Check out the video of the painting process.

The finished result.

/Daniel & Kristoffer

http://KONSTruktioner.info

Windowfarm: Genesis through Month Three

6:38 pm in Completed Window Farms, kits, Starting Seeds by Allison Casey

Hello, fellow Windowfarmers!


It’s my inaugural post on these pages, to share the story of my three-month-old farm.


An advance warning: this will almost certainly be a little lengthy… For the visually-inclined, I’ve uploaded some accompanying pictures.


Chapter 1: Seedlings


We decided to build a Windowfarm at my workplace last summer, and were one of the first on board when the kits first went on sale. The kit (Classic 4-column and bottles) arrived in August, and I ordered a huge selection of seeds from Burpee to coincide (at the time I didn’t realize the kit itself comes with enough seeds to start the farm).


Growing seedlings… is not the easiest thing in the world. The first time around I set myself up with an ice cube tray, where I put maybe an eighth-inch of hydrogen peroxide and filled the rest with water. I made little labels for each variety of plant I was growing (all leafy things — a few types of lettuce, chard, bok choy, basil, spinach…) and dropped a few seeds for each into the mix.


Unable to find any real instructions for how long to leave the seeds in the mixture, that first time I left them in for almost the entire workday, then inserted them into Flora Plugs and put the tray in a cupboard (seeds like the dark). A few days later, I started to see some green!


As the sprouts sprouted I moved them to a second ice cube tray on a windowsill, and watered accordingly.


Well… until the weekend.


I somehow naïvely had it in my mind that these little seedlings were a little more resilient than was actually the case, and didn’t stop by the office to tend to them on Saturday. When I finally dragged myself in on Sunday afternoon it became apparent that the window I’d chosen absolutely baked in the early afternoon, and the entire tray was bone-dry and quite dead.


So, a bit of a failure there.


By the time I managed to try again, it was early January. This time I decided to grow the seeds at home to make it a little easier to be at their beck and call, and this was when I hit my stride.


Two main changes here: leaving the seeds in the hydrogen peroxide mixture all day seemed a little excessive (these things grow all on their own in nature, right?), so this time I stuck with about a half an hour — and found no difference at all in sprout rate (both times I planted 16 plants and got 15 sprouts). I also bought a daylight-colored compact fluourescent lamp and reassigned my desk lamp to grow-light duty.


Keeping the seedlings under close light for roughly 18 hours each day, after about four weeks I had some short, bushy little plants that were ready for their next phase of life.


Chapter II: Farm Building


This was… an adventure.


The kit makes the assembly of the farm fairly straightforward and easy, so I’m only going to touch on the points where I struggled or had to improvise.


First of all, mounting. This is about the only area where the kit leaves you hanging (no pun intended!), as there are about a million different variations of how best to do it, depending largely on what you’re drilling into.


Instead of putting the hooks directly into the ceiling of the windowsill (crumbly sheetrock, in my case), I ended up buying a piece of 1×4 wood the length of the window and mounting that with screws (and wall anchors) and L-brackets on either end. (I do not want this thing to fall. Ever.) This method allowed some flexibility (and room for error) in the placement of the hooks, which can be screwed directly into the wood.


I highly, highly recommend taking on this phase of the project with a second set of hands, and ideally one of you will be somewhat familiar with the basic construction-ish type skills that such an endeavor requires. I managed to get through it on my own (with a couple of consulting calls to a friend with more experience hanging stuff than me), but it probably took two hours longer than was actually necessary, and I was a cursing, sweating mess by the end of it.


Chapter III: Time to Turn it On


So. The thing is built and mounted. Transplanting the seedlings is pretty dang simple (especially if you’ve used the Flora pods and don’t have to worry about washing soil off), and they’re now nestled their net cups and bottles. Things are looking good.


I go to add water to the reservoir bottles, and every single one of them starts to leak. Profusely.


Bummer. Major bummer. Taking apart the needle mechanism and tightening every piece helped, but didn’t completely stop the leak. I went out and bought some supplemental sealing washers (probably not the technical term…) to seal it better, which helped a little bit more but still fell short of a complete fix. Finally I ended up using silicon sealant and applying it to the outside of the mechanism (it probably would be more effective inside the bottle cap, but I didn’t really want it leeching into the water supply), and after letting it dry overnight the leaks finally stopped. Were I to do this all over from scratch, I would probably spend a bit of time tweaking that part of the design.


I then ran into trouble getting the water in each column to make it all the way to the top, even after playing around with pump pressure. More specifically, three of the four columns needed a bit of romancing to actually start working. For two of them, just messing around with the alignment of the tubes  ended up working — once they were a little straighter or adjusted just… so… they were fine and allowed the water go all the way up.


For the third nitpicky column, I ended up finding that the tubes can have two different ends: either it closes off a little from the full diameter (I imagine these ends were melted slightly by the manufacturer to get a clean, easy cut), or they are completely open, exactly the width of the tube diameter. For my last column, this slight narrowing of the path was enough that none of the water was making it through the top of the tube, where pressure is lowest. By flipping it around so the tube was open on top, I was able to fix the problem and get the water flowing.


Chapter IV: Thoughts of a “Seasoned” Farmer


First of all, this is not exactly a “green” endeavor. CFLs have turned out to make the difference between a lackluster, limp, disapointing farm and one with vibrant, viable plants. I have two columns of two lights and really could use a third set for the bottom row of plants, and all of these are on for 18 hours a day. It uses a fair amount of energy. Whether it’s really offset by the leafy greens you’re bringing into the world and the more sustainable life you’re now living… well, who knows. Personally I think the novelty factor tips the scale in favor of the farm, but the hardcore environmentalist might not agree.


Speaking of lights, once I decided to add them to the farm, I went the pin-socket route. These things are great and cheap, but I had to manually scrape away the rubber insulation with an x-acto knife to expose the wire where the pins were going to hit — the pins are supposed to poke through on their own, but in my case they didn’t. Just something to keep in mind if they don’t immediately work.


Be very, very careful that the bottle caps don’t clog with algae or other gunk. This became an issue about two months after launching, and resulted in a backup of water in the base of some of the higher bottles, which led to overflowing when we topped off the reservoirs (it took about a week to figure out what was going on) and the dehydration of some of the lower plants. It was a huge pain to take care of. Next time I take the thing apart I’ll probably cut the openings so they’re a little bit bigger and less likely to clog.


I have had particularly excellent success with bok choy, basil, and chard. Romaine lettuce also grows well, and I believe my buttercrunch and simpson lettuce would have been good growers had they not fallen victim to a system malfunction that ended in a bit of a tragedy for one full column. I had terrible luck with rosemary and avon spinach, and after an initial growth spurt, my pea plant seems to have lost the will to live. I have younger cucumber, sage, tomato, and kale plants that are all looking very good, but aren’t yet harvestable, so their jury is technically still out.


Several of my plants were sowed in soil then transplanted into the hydroton pellets, and this transition actually went much better than expected — perhaps even smoother than the plants started in flora pods.


Some of the modifications shared on this community look like they offer great improvements in terms of aesthetics or functionality; the kit leads to a functional farm, but it looks a little science-fair-esque. Fixed mounting and tubes and nicer bottles might allow for a more professional-looking and slightly easier-to-manage system, and I would recommend considering them if you’re starting from scratch.


And if I were to start from scratch, I would do just that — I wouldn’t go with a kit. I appreciated having it as a guide for my first build, but I think I’d be too inclined to tweak the second time around to find it useful.


As one final thought, this thing is a lot of work. It requires active involvement and observation and maintenance. Troubleshooting takes quite a bit of brainpower and know-how, and I’m still very much working toward a stable system full of thriving plants. Generally speaking, it’s not something you can just check in on once or twice a week.


That said, I love the Farm. It looks awesome, there is a crazy sense of achievement at growing plants from seed to the point where they’re edible (especially here in NYC), and visitors love it. I’ve learned a lot, and there’s of course the certain sense of pride when someone sees it for the first time and goes, “Holy cow, what is that?!” If you can devote the time, energy, and resources, I highly recommend taking one on for yourself.


This system but outside?

10:44 pm in Getting Started, Outside Farms, Uncategorized by Tracey Baxter

Has anyone created this system outside?

I was looking mainly for vertical options for our garden because we are have a very shady yard and everything I really want to grow is ‘full sun’ of course.  I would do this indoors but this house has few windows …few windows plus a shady yard = dungeon in the house!  So the deck is the sunniest spot and the only window out that way is a door – not a great option for a window garden!

Any suggestions would be appreciated!

Contest! How high can you pump water with the little aquarium airlifter?

1:46 am in Education, energy consumption, environmental impact, Help the project by testing this, How-Tos, International, Materials and Resources by Brian White

I made another video and basically I ran out of pipe and ladder and because of that I couldn’t pump any higher but I am curious. How high can you go? I went 13 ft but there was no problem whatsoever pumping that high! So, maybe, if you have a 2 story house or an available high place you could find out how high it is possible to go? So the contest rules are in the picture below and in a video
(You might get some extra hints and ideas if you watch the video)
Basically you use your aquarium air pump, and a T joint set at 2 ft below your liquid reservoir height.

A picture showing the contes rules

Contest rules for unbelievably high airlift powered by puny aquarium air pump

So the rest of the post is from a couple of days ago and has a little different version of the video. (I am too Lazy to write a new post)

I made a new video about the pulser pump and Eileen suggested that a “pulser pump nano” (a smaller version) might be useful. The pulser pump is my little “invention” from over 20 years ago. Anyway, I no longer live near a river so I cannot do a nano. But because of my involvement in windowfarms, I can at least test how high a tiny pulser pump can pump. Today I used the T-joint method and an extendable ladder to go pretty high. With an aquarium air pump and 22 inches of submergence, I pumped to 13 ft high today! I bet it can go a lot higher but thats it for me.
Here is the video (which may be of some use to windowfarmers)