Ran across your site a while back and thought I would give it a try.  Spring is almost here and I am iching to do some gardening.  I made a free standing system since I have nothing to hang it from.  I had most of the parts laying around like the pump from the kids old fish tank.  They only things I bought so far has been the 3/8″ tubing and a 3/8″ tee.  I wanted to share the pump design since it worked pretty good.  The long 3/8″ tube goes in the top end of the tee.  A short piece goes in the bottom end with half cut off so water will get in when on the bottom of the tank.  A small piece of 3/8″ tube goes in the middle tee and then the 1/4″ tube from the air pump fits snug inside it.

I sprouted some seeds and put them in it, but they died.   I think they died since the leaves were too small and stayed wet all the time and I do not have any hydroponic solutions yet as well.  I enjoy the experimentation and will try again.

Recently I added liquid organic fish fertilizer (Neptune’s Harvest 2-4-1) – about 1 Tbs diluted in 1 gallon water added to resevoir that already had a gallon or two in it. There’s definitely a bit of a smell. I think I’ll probably drain the resevoir and try a different fertilizer at some point for a comparison. I really need the windowfarm to be as smell-free as possible as the guestroom of our apt will soon be occupied and so I need to tone down the workshop/mad scientist aspects of the project.

After reading Britta’s post about lights yesterday I suspect that my baby mint and thyme plants are looking leggy so I’ve added linear flourescent shop lights balanced vertically in the corners of the windowframe. I put these on the same 14 hour on timer that I’m using with my seed germination light. Since I’m not trying to induce flowering (I’m growing leafy kitchen herbs.) does anyone know if I should be using a dawn to dusk light cycle instead with the lights?

Hopefully by next week plants will be big enough to show up in a photo. I swear they are there.

Testing light in my window with a foot candle light meter. Good light, but not enough of it long enough.

If these plants are going to be nutrient packed enough to be worth your while growing them and investing all this time, you should give them the light they need to photosynthesize and process the nutrients you are feeding them.

Lots of stem on this leggy arugula plant

Plants that do not get enough light grow “leggy”– they are all stems and the leaves look like they are perpetually reaching out for mooooore liiiiiiiiiight pleeeeeeease. Even my South facing unobstructed windows are not really getting enough light this winter and my arugula is getting looooooooong in the leaves.

Most of the information on lights we have been working with comes from the rather prolific specifications in

Gardening Indoors with Soil and Hydroponics by George F. Van Patten.

Windowfarms Light Policy
We have decided to use CFLs (and LEDs soon, as they become more affordable) because the big grow lights used in greenhouses and by pot farmers are simply not viable to live with in city apartments and frankly just use too much electricity.

Instead the windowfarms project has been focused on making the most efficient possible use of consumer grade CFLs. We are not using just any old CFLs. We have found the ones that are only recently available on the market most likely to grow vegetable plants through all stages of their lifecycle.

Lighting for plant growth is a complicated science and I will not burden you with understanding anything more than the fact that 4 factors are important for growing with CFLs under these conditions:
1) The Kelvin color temperature of the lights- The color of light produced by the sun changes over the course of the year and plants are tuned into these changes. Light color triggers them to enter different stages of growth, so we want to be careful about light color. Consumer brands use lots of different names like soft white, bright white, daylight, full spectrum. Don’t go by the term alone. Find out the color temperature (marked with a K). We have been using 6500 K bulbs and have produced healthy flowers and fruits in several species. Between the natural light coming in your windows and the artificial light, we’ve probably got a pretty good spectrum.

2) Wattage- This boils down to the strength of the lights. We want them to be strong. Thus far, we have produced good results using 27 Watt actual/100 Watt incandescent equivalent bulbs. We may find that we can go down to 75 watt equivalents (19 actual watts) or below depending on the array and proximity. This needs to be tested!

3) Proximity to plant- Van Patten claims, ”
Light from CFLs fades fast and must be placed close to plants. The bulb produces very little heat and can be mounted about 2 inches(5 cm) away from foliage to achieve best results.” So, we have tried to make the lighting moveable so that as plants grow, they are always within this distance from the bulb. We add in fishing wire as trellicing so that we can movethe branches if they try to grow too close to the light and start burning themselves (Plant thinks- yay! i have fnally arrived at the sun. Ouch!! It’s hot!).

4) Duration at each life stage- Just like teen humans need more sleep, adolescent plants need more light than adult plants do. Think about how plants are young in the spring when the days are longer and then the days get shorter again in the fall during harvest season. We use timers to control the lights, sometimes leaving the lights on longer than the sun is out. For more, read Van Patten’s Photoperiod section on page 88. You need to learn a little bit about the kind of plants you are growing and their natural best growing conditions, which you will then mimic with your setup.

Here are the specs on the bulbs we use. We have been using them because they are available all over the country at Home Depot and they fit our requirements. However, please feel free to find similar brands and post them here for others.
Blue package marked 100 Watt at Home Depot
N:Vision brand
SKU 599-526
27 Watts (Package says equivalent to a 100 Watt incandescent bulb)
Kelvin color temperature= 6500K (according to customer support) but marked 5500 K
120 V 60Hz 0.450 A

Supposedly these are available with globe covers but I have never found them. That would be rad because it would keep plants from singeing themselves.

For more about why we are making kits, read this.

Here’s how kits are looking.

You will choose between a 2-column or 4-column windowfarm. You WILL have to be able to screw at least 4 screws into your upper window sill. The bottom bottle of each strand will be the reservoir.
We will probably produce the first batch by hand ourselves here in the Brooklyn shop but the next batches may be handled by an awesome little organization that hires the disabled just North of the city.

Get a sneak peek of the one we have in Brooklyn headquarters here.

Major points up for debate:
1) To give you the bottles or ask you to supply your own. If you supply your own, you need to drill through the tough end very precisely and this can be a dangerous task with a drill or a red hot cylinder. However, sourcing the bottles and getting them to you is very expensive on our end. What do you say? Would you be willing to pay a premium to not have to find, drill, cut, and paint your own bottles?

2) To include the pump or not. The petco pump is the best one we have found and it comes with air valves. However, some people have found that their pumps are duds. Having to deal with Petco’s duds will be a big burden on us that will take away from our mission work. We’d prefer to simply have a button while you are buying you kit that you press to order your pump from Petco separately. Is this a deal killer?

3) Lights. Almost everyone really needs them but no one ever wants to get lights. That is, until after they start raising their little baby plants and the plants come out looking leggy/scrawny. You can pump them full of nutrients but if they don’t have enough light to process the nutrients through photosynthesis, it is very sad =<. Anyway, I'm thinking we will sell lights as a separate kit. You would buy individual strands. Sound good?

Also, if you have a great business mind, experience with this kind of production setup, and some time to volunteer, we would love to hear from you. Send me a message by finding Britta under members.

I have gotten messages from at least ten individuals- including one senior citizen in Manhattan- requesting such a service.

We already have one awesome local highschool kid on the windowfarms core team, Roy.

I would love to give Roy and other kids like him a job going around the city on bikes with baskets to come help you install your windowfarm properly and to make sure you are set up well to maintain it.

Perhaps you would buy a kit and then choose to add on the additional service of an installation.

Do you know how we could fund the startup costs for this new piece of the venture and train a bunch of kids ASAP? If so, please shoot me a message.

What pricing seems reasonable to you guys? Should we price it similarly to a visit by a plumber?

For the most part, we have been trying to keep all the know-how building online here on the website so that people based elsewhere can benefit as well (like the Finland Windowfarms team!!).

However, I am considering holding workshops occasionally again at headquarters in South Williamsburg, Brooklyn. We would ask for a $25 per person donation to the project in exchange for a “cooking show” kind of demo session and customized troubleshooting advice.

Interest? We would probably hold the first one in April 2010 sometime.

Building your own windowfarm is always an option and enabling anyone who has more time than money to do this is the whole point. That is the “charitable” cause we are working for here at Windowfarms headquarters.

However, we are also trying to get as many people as possible to have windowfarms so we can do collective research on how to best grow plants under the local conditions of our homes. This is our secondary research mission. NASA is researching how to grow plants in the space station and we are researching how to grow plants in our apartment windowfarms– both unlikely but potentially viable venues for veggie plants given a little help from us humans.

A lot of people have asked us, the core team, to just make kits. Not everyone is willing to be a hardware hacker and lots of people with valuable skills to add to the project (foodies, gardeners, teachers, parents) just say they are not handy enough to build their own. We want to get these people on board so the hackers can learn from the gardeners and we all build new skills!

Finally, this will be a source of income for the project. Believe it or not, it takes a lot of time and money to run the windowfarms project and frankly, I’m going broke. We used the funding we raised on Kickstarter earlier this year to set up a shop, improve the fundamental infrastructure of the website for higher traffic use, and to start testing components for kits.

I would like this to be a source of local green jobs for some of the dedicated volunteers whose time and brilliance have made this project possible. If we cannot pay some of them for their time, they need to move on to other work soon and we will lose their valuable accumulated knowledge. Instead, I hope we can bring them on in a more permanent capacity to have them help me train a new workforce of NYC local kids who will then be ready for the coming greencollar market in NY.

If you have some great business experience, legal acumen, good connections, and/or some time to volunteer to help make this mission happen, please send me a message.

It is so much easier to SEE what should be adjusted. If after following these instructions you are still having problems, PLEASE CREATE A NEW POST AND UPLOAD PICTURES OF THE PARTS YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT, TAG IT AIRLIFT TROUBLESHOOTING, & THEN JUST LINK TO YOUR POST in the comments below.

1) Please make sure you have the latest version of the how-to for the airlift system. Updates (like software updates) have been made to the instructions. The updates were made to correct issues that we found people were running into. The file should be called “3plantairliftHOWTO_3_4_10.pdf”.

2) Pump- Get the PETCO Air Pump 2-Way For 13-106 gallon Aquariums Model 9903 http://www.petco.com/product/109838/PETCO-Air-Pump.aspx

3) Tubing-
Get it at Canal Rubber.
x1 3/8″ OUTSIDE DIAMETER 1/4″ Inside Diameter Reinforced Kuritec Tubing at 4′6″ long
X2 1/4″ O.D. 1/8″ I.D. Vinyl tubing at 2′6″ long
x1 3/8″ O.D. 1/4″ ID Vinyl tubing at 6′ long

4) One-way air valves-You need these. Trust me. If you get the Petco pump, these come with it for free! Otherwise, you need to go to an aquarium store and tell them you want one way check valves for an air pump. They will cost about $3 each. You need to insert these in the line between the pump and your windowfarm. Be sure they are facing the right way (blow thru them to test) and turn on the pump with your valves inserted before you insert the tubing in water. Otherwise, your air tubes might fill with water and your system will not pump as high.

5) Bottom reservoir- You want your airlift tube submerged under the tallest possible column of water. That’s just how to physics work. So, if you use the 1 Gallon Poland Springs bottle, fill it up as high as possible. If you use something else, make sure you have picked a container that is going to create a tall column. By the same token, if your tube is curling so that it is effectively not submerged under a tall column, zip tie it to something rigid to straighten it out and create the max submersion height.

6) Angled bottom to tube- Cut your water intake tube (the Reinforced 3/8″ OUTSIDE DIAMETER 1/4″ Inside Diameter) at an angle at the bottom so that it does not just suck on the bottom of your reservoir.

7) More teflon plumber’s tape at the joints- you may have a leak somewhere.

Bad air valve? We have had a quality control issue with the air valves on occasion. Take the out. Blow through them. Is one harder to blow through than the other? If so, replace or try cleaning/soaking in alcohol.

9) Smoother interior walls for your tube and rigidity- If you’ve tried all of these things and they don’t work, go to canal plastics and get some rigid acrylic tube with a 1/4″ inside diameter and 3/8″ outside diameter. Go to canal rubber and get some vinyl tubing with a 3/8″ inside diameter (for a curved u back into the column at the top). Replace the reinforced tubing with this more rigid and smoother walled tube. It is what we are using for the next generation windowfarms . . . coming soon in kits.

Kits will be a lot like this.

Please check out the excellent work of the Finnish Windowfarms team. This shot is a sneak preview of them installing the first few LED lights on the windowfarm they made out of Finnish recyclables in the window of the Kiasma Contemporary Art Museum in Helsinki.

Their work on adapting the Windowfarms Project for Finland is part of a larger program called Herbologies/Foraging Networks at the Pixelache festival happening this month in Helsinki.

Niko Punin was responsible for development of the grow spectrum LEDs and has some very interesting ideas that we will be watching closely in the future!

More pictures here:

Windowfarms Finland on Facebook