We built our own windowfarm of radish, we used 3 plastic bottles and a water pump that takes the water from a big container all the way up to the first radish and the water goes down to the last plant. We planted quite a few seeds so the radish have grown a lot, should we take them out and put them in a plant pot aside?
After they germinated, I took a few of the strawberry plans out of the “garden in a bag”s and placed it in the window farm. As you can see, the windowfarm plants have much bigger leaves and more growth.
I still don’t windowfarm but maybe this year! Anyway, I made how to videos about the T-joint method of airlift and I hope the helped lots of people. But don’t get caught up on the T-joint. I believe that for most people this new method is better. I call it airlift in a bucket (because mine is in a bucket). I make pallet gardens with integrated water cycling. (Something like windowfarms I guess) However making a T-joint means digging 3 ft deep holes in the garden and who wants to do that! So I played with ordinary airlift for the longest time and finally found something that seems to work very well at all sorts of different heights and hardly ever produces the dreaded blowback. The constriction in my case is a piece of airline stuffed into the tube. I find that if you want to pump higher, a smaller (narrower) constriction seems to work better. Why does this method work well? Whenever the water stalls in the tube going up, air seeks a way out and starts back through the other tube. But now it has to push out 10 inches of water through a tiny hole before it can get out. This takes time and in that time, water is leaking back from the stall, fixing the stall AND making it easier for the air to go up the airlift tube. So before it reaches the constriction, the air is going back up the tube again! I think you have to have the tap. It just gives you such fine control. With my pallet gardens, I have 100 sq ft of gardens (6 pallet gardens) watered from one half of a 4.5 watt 2 outlet bubble pump! And the pump is far away from the garden (60 ft and more). This means that for people who cannot sleep with the noise, you can put your pump in the basement or in another room! and just run the air tubing to where you need it for your windowfarm. Anyways, I am very pleased with this system and I hope you will be too. Brian
I have a 3 plant vertical window farm made with the DIY instructions. This is my first run at windowfarming, so I didn’t expect it to go smoothly. All 3 of my bottles hold a cilantro seedling. They’ve been in the farm for about 2 weeks now, but have taken a turn for the worse. The leaves started to shrivel, the roots began to drupe, and some of them even turned brown on the leaf tips.
Important details that might determine what I’m doing wrong:
- I am not running my air pump on a timer. For the first week, it was just running non-stop. However, I changed my strategy when I first began to notice (what I thought was) a negative reaction to over-watering. Throughout the second week, I manually turned the air pump on and off for a few minutes to water seedlings. This was done about 3-5 times a day, mostly depending on whether or not the jiffy pellet was still moist.
- The ph levels are fine, remaining at 6.0 at all times.
- I’ve added an adequate amount of NSR Green Leaves grow juice.
- My window is east-facing; so we only get a limited amount of sunlight. Regardless, I’ve left a white curtain in the window farm’s path just so my cilantro seedlings don’t boil.
Can any wise window farmers provide some insight? It is greatly appreciated!
After waiting several months to after completing my set up, it’s finally off the ground! It was, quite literally, piled in the corner for months while I worked up a way to hang it in my house. The house is 120 years old and there was NO way to hang it, so I had to find the best way to hang this new contraption. As you can see in the picture I have a free standing rack with my 2 x 3 planters. I feel the free standing rig is the best for me simply because it allows me flexibility to relocate it in the future.
Below is a brief description of the components of the system and what I’ve found in setting things up:
Full shot of the WF on its rack
ecoair2 air pump from a local hydroponics store (I couldn’t find a fishtank bubbler)
~10′ of clear 1/4″ (i.d) vinyl tube
~15′ of 1/8″ (i.d.) black air tube (more than I really needed but it came in handy for my planters)
3 plastic T valves
1 medium sized rock (look at the pics, it keeps my air input below the water tank)
1 timer w/ settings for 30 mins at a time
I used an old Britta water filter tank, the kind that have a drain spigot on one end and a whole in the top to add more water
6 32oz. Gatorade bottles + lids
Several feet of the black air tube mentioned above
hydroton (clay balls)
shade mesh (1′x6′, which was more than necessary for lining the bottom of the planter cups)
6 rubber bands
I used scrap wood that I found in my basement to build a structure to hang and support the windowfarm as you can see in my pics. The key here is that I can keep my water tank off the ground via the base, and the simple hooks in the top. Hopefully it will stand the tests of time.
I have not yet added any nutrients but will be using fox farm nutrient trio. I bought this locally. I plan to follow the directions. I will also be adding molasses to the nutrient soup eventually. More on that in a future post.
I just put in 4 of 6 plants the planters yesterday:
I will soon be putting clippings of strawberry plants.
If you have more questions about any of this, message me!
La tecnica que aplicamos fue la de Airlift en nuestra opinión era una de las mas sencillas de crear pero si tuvimos algunas dificultades a la hora de poner las bombas de aire y ajustar los tubos y las mangueras para que el agua pueda pasar a las mangueras y así riegue las plantas.
Las cosechas van creciendo lentamente, todavia no vemos mucho avance pero esperamos que para el final del mes ya podamos ver algo.