our.windowfarms.org

Big changes this week in Brooklyn and the windowfarm is beginning to feel like a stable viable thing in my home. Plants have grown a couple inches, timer, pump and valves working steady.

Recently I added liquid organic fish fertilizer (Neptune’s Harvest 2-4-1) – about 1 Tbs diluted in 1 gallon water added to resevoir that already had a gallon or two in it. There’s definitely a bit of a smell. I think I’ll probably drain the resevoir and try a different fertilizer at some point for a comparison. I really need the windowfarm to be as smell-free as possible as the guestroom of our apt will soon be occupied and so I need to tone down the workshop/mad scientist aspects of the project.

After reading Britta’s post about lights yesterday I suspect that my baby mint and thyme plants are looking leggy so I’ve added linear flourescent shop lights balanced vertically in the corners of the windowframe. I put these on the same 14 hour on timer that I’m using with my seed germination light. Since I’m not trying to induce flowering (I’m growing leafy kitchen herbs.) does anyone know if I should be using a dawn to dusk light cycle instead with the lights?

Hopefully by next week plants will be big enough to show up in a photo. I swear they are there.

We are almost there on kits, Folks. We would love your input on a couple of things.

For more about why we are making kits, read this.

Here’s how kits are looking.

You will choose between a 2-column or 4-column windowfarm. You WILL have to be able to screw at least 4 screws into your upper window sill. The bottom bottle of each strand will be the reservoir.
We will probably produce the first batch by hand ourselves here in the Brooklyn shop but the next batches may be handled by an awesome little organization that hires the disabled just North of the city.

Get a sneak peek of the one we have in Brooklyn headquarters here.

Major points up for debate:
1) To give you the bottles or ask you to supply your own. If you supply your own, you need to drill through the tough end very precisely and this can be a dangerous task with a drill or a red hot cylinder. However, sourcing the bottles and getting them to you is very expensive on our end. What do you say? Would you be willing to pay a premium to not have to find, drill, cut, and paint your own bottles?

2) To include the pump or not. The petco pump is the best one we have found and it comes with air valves. However, some people have found that their pumps are duds. Having to deal with Petco’s duds will be a big burden on us that will take away from our mission work. We’d prefer to simply have a button while you are buying you kit that you press to order your pump from Petco separately. Is this a deal killer?

3) Lights. Almost everyone really needs them but no one ever wants to get lights. That is, until after they start raising their little baby plants and the plants come out looking leggy/scrawny. You can pump them full of nutrients but if they don’t have enough light to process the nutrients through photosynthesis, it is very sad =<. Anyway, I'm thinking we will sell lights as a separate kit. You would buy individual strands. Sound good?

Also, if you have a great business mind, experience with this kind of production setup, and some time to volunteer, we would love to hear from you. Send me a message by finding Britta under members.

Another suggestion for an income stream to support the Windowfarms Project mission that would simultaneously provide local jobs and green collar training is a mobile installation crew.

I have gotten messages from at least ten individuals- including one senior citizen in Manhattan- requesting such a service.

We already have one awesome local highschool kid on the windowfarms core team, Roy.

I would love to give Roy and other kids like him a job going around the city on bikes with baskets to come help you install your windowfarm properly and to make sure you are set up well to maintain it.

Perhaps you would buy a kit and then choose to add on the additional service of an installation.

Do you know how we could fund the startup costs for this new piece of the venture and train a bunch of kids ASAP? If so, please shoot me a message.

What pricing seems reasonable to you guys? Should we price it similarly to a visit by a plumber?

Why are we making kits if this is an opensource hardware project?

Building your own windowfarm is always an option and enabling anyone who has more time than money to do this is the whole point. That is the “charitable” cause we are working for here at Windowfarms headquarters.

However, we are also trying to get as many people as possible to have windowfarms so we can do collective research on how to best grow plants under the local conditions of our homes. This is our secondary research mission. NASA is researching how to grow plants in the space station and we are researching how to grow plants in our apartment windowfarms– both unlikely but potentially viable venues for veggie plants given a little help from us humans.

A lot of people have asked us, the core team, to just make kits. Not everyone is willing to be a hardware hacker and lots of people with valuable skills to add to the project (foodies, gardeners, teachers, parents) just say they are not handy enough to build their own. We want to get these people on board so the hackers can learn from the gardeners and we all build new skills!

Finally, this will be a source of income for the project. Believe it or not, it takes a lot of time and money to run the windowfarms project and frankly, I’m going broke. We used the funding we raised on Kickstarter earlier this year to set up a shop, improve the fundamental infrastructure of the website for higher traffic use, and to start testing components for kits.

I would like this to be a source of local green jobs for some of the dedicated volunteers whose time and brilliance have made this project possible. If we cannot pay some of them for their time, they need to move on to other work soon and we will lose their valuable accumulated knowledge. Instead, I hope we can bring them on in a more permanent capacity to have them help me train a new workforce of NYC local kids who will then be ready for the coming greencollar market in NY.

If you have some great business experience, legal acumen, good connections, and/or some time to volunteer to help make this mission happen, please send me a message.

So, here’s the thing about collective R&D. It isn’t pretty. Just like science, a lot of times, things don’t work out right at first and sometimes they never do. But you learn a lot as you try to fix them. We are all working through this together and these things will be awesome and foolproof one day, but you are an early adopter. You have my promise that these #%#$%@ things can work, have worked, do work. We just need to find the problem with yours. Deep breath.

It is so much easier to SEE what should be adjusted. If after following these instructions you are still having problems, PLEASE CREATE A NEW POST AND UPLOAD PICTURES OF THE PARTS YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT, TAG IT AIRLIFT TROUBLESHOOTING, & THEN JUST LINK TO YOUR POST in the comments below.

1) Please make sure you have the latest version of the how-to for the airlift system. Updates (like software updates) have been made to the instructions. The updates were made to correct issues that we found people were running into. The file should be called “3plantairliftHOWTO_3_4_10.pdf”.

2) Pump- Get the PETCO Air Pump 2-Way For 13-106 gallon Aquariums Model 9903 http://www.petco.com/product/109838/PETCO-Air-Pump.aspx

3) Tubing-
Get it at Canal Rubber.
x1 3/8″ OUTSIDE DIAMETER 1/4″ Inside Diameter Reinforced Kuritec Tubing at 4′6″ long
X2 1/4″ O.D. 1/8″ I.D. Vinyl tubing at 2′6″ long
x1 3/8″ O.D. 1/4″ ID Vinyl tubing at 6′ long

4) One-way air valves-You need these. Trust me. If you get the Petco pump, these come with it for free! Otherwise, you need to go to an aquarium store and tell them you want one way check valves for an air pump. They will cost about $3 each. You need to insert these in the line between the pump and your windowfarm. Be sure they are facing the right way (blow thru them to test) and turn on the pump with your valves inserted before you insert the tubing in water. Otherwise, your air tubes might fill with water and your system will not pump as high.

5) Bottom reservoir- You want your airlift tube submerged under the tallest possible column of water. That’s just how to physics work. So, if you use the 1 Gallon Poland Springs bottle, fill it up as high as possible. If you use something else, make sure you have picked a container that is going to create a tall column. By the same token, if your tube is curling so that it is effectively not submerged under a tall column, zip tie it to something rigid to straighten it out and create the max submersion height.

6) Angled bottom to tube- Cut your water intake tube (the Reinforced 3/8″ OUTSIDE DIAMETER 1/4″ Inside Diameter) at an angle at the bottom so that it does not just suck on the bottom of your reservoir.

7) More teflon plumber’s tape at the joints- you may have a leak somewhere.

Bad air valve? We have had a quality control issue with the air valves on occasion. Take the out. Blow through them. Is one harder to blow through than the other? If so, replace or try cleaning/soaking in alcohol.

9) Smoother interior walls for your tube and rigidity- If you’ve tried all of these things and they don’t work, go to canal plastics and get some rigid acrylic tube with a 1/4″ inside diameter and 3/8″ outside diameter. Go to canal rubber and get some vinyl tubing with a 3/8″ inside diameter (for a curved u back into the column at the top). Replace the reinforced tubing with this more rigid and smoother walled tube. It is what we are using for the next generation windowfarms . . . coming soon in kits.

Hi Windowfarmers,

In addition to an aspiring home food grower, I’m a grad student at the New School doing research on participatory media and sustainable everyday practices. My primary case study deals with local food systems and closing the waste loop. I’ve created a brief survey here (bit.ly/bAXPxQ), and I’d greatly appreciate it if you would consider spending a few minutes to take it! I’m also looking for respondents to participate in brief interviews about their use of technology (both “low” and “high”) in relation to their food growing, food sourcing, and/or waste minimization practices and aspirations. There is an area in the survey to indicate whether you would be interested in participating in an interview–or you could feel free to contact me here!

Thanks again for your time!

James Wilcox

Has anyone experimented with a float switch as a way or triggering a pump instead of using a timer? A friend suggested this to me and it looks like the switches are really cheap compared to timers. The idea is like the float in a toilet tank, but instead of turning off the water when the resevoir reaches a certain level, a circuit closes inside the switch when water reaches a level and turns power to pump on or off. Here’s an example of what I’m talking about:

http://www.aquahub.com/store/ifloatfloatswitch.html

I’ve got my windowfarm working manually, i.e. the main delay at this point is lack of a timer, so I’m close. Since I originally posted I’ve made a few changes. I cut the resevoir tubes down to 48″ to reduce weight, and have suspended them from separate pairs of hooks screwed into the drywall ceiling. Two columns of four bottles each are suspended with alligator clips and 1/8″ dowels from the baling wire supporting the bottom resevoir. This setup makes it possible to remove the resevoirs separately and seems to be working pretty well. Pump is inside the bottom resevoir and once realized which was the input and which the output is worked pretty well. In initial test I had 5′ of head and that was a bit too much but lowering the top resevoir by six inches made a difference and now pumping works well.

Biggest issue I had was how to attach the drip line. Inserting the adjustable valve directly into the top resevoir seemed like it would leak so I put a 1/4″ transfer barb into the resevoir and put a blob of silicone sealant around it. Then a few inches of 1/4″ tube to the adjustable valve, then another piece of 1/4″ tube down to the top of the first bottle. Seems to work great without leaks.

My seedling are a couple inches high and I can’t wait to transplant them. Need to get a great timer and wondering if arduino is too much for a non-programmer to try. But I really want maximum flexibility with the timer.

Questions:

Is anyone using organic fertilizer in their windowfarm? What kind? How big should seedlings be before “planting them out” in the windowfarm?

I’m considering making my bottom reservoir with an assembly of old soy milk cartons. (I have a window sill that it can sit on.) However, one of the soy milk cartons I’m using wasn’t cleaned out properly, and had some mold growing on it. I was able to scrub most of it off, but I’m afraid trace amounts of mold are left. I could use some sort of cleaner (vinegar would probably be my choice) to get rid of it, but I’m not sure if introducing that (would it leave trace amounts?) would be any better than the mold in the first place.

So my question is: how sensitive are the plants to what the water may be in contact with? Is there something I should do to minimize any risk, or should I just abandon this idea?