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Sketchup 3D model of windowfarms

8:51 am in International, kits, Other Cool Urban Ag. Stuff, questions by Stuart Rogers

Hi

I am a newbie to windowfarming, having recently bought a Classic kit via the Kickstarter site. I’m looking forward to March when they ship.

Until then I am planning the best place to put my farm. As an architect, I build 3D computer models of buildings, and I often use them to check the path of sunlight coming through windows at different times of the year. It occurred to me that I could find the best place for the windowfarm using this method!

I should explain that I am also waiting to move into a new apartment in a foreign country, so I do not have first-hand experience of which windows are sunny at what times, etc etc. But I could also use it to include Windowfarms in future (as-yet-unbuilt) architectural projects, to see how they would look. And it might be nice to design other elements around the kit, like an enclosure for the pump, or housings for lighting.

There are obviously many creative / engineering types on this forum, so I was wondering if anyone had made a model of their setup using Google Sketchup or other 3D software?

And if it is possible to get hold of an accurate 3D model or drawings of the Classic Windowfarm (from the industrial designers who designed it, for example), that would just make my day!

Failing that, I might make a sketchup model of the Classic Windowfarm when it arrives in March, and I will post it here.

Thanks for reading!

Stu

Air Pump or water pump

5:28 am in How-Tos, kits by Herman Widodo

I just start building my windowsfarm.

Can I use water pump rather than the air pump ?

I found that aquarium water filter pump that lot cheaper than the air pump, and might be easier to build the water flow.

Thanks

How long kit supplies stay ‘fresh’

11:08 am in Getting Started, kits, questions, Seeking Advice, Uncategorized by Matthew Meisenhelder

Quick question,

I’m curious if anyone knows how long the gourmet kits supplies (vegetative mix, etc.) stay fresh if stored in a cool dark place and unopened.

I have a kit that is a year old that I wanted to start to implement and would love any knowledge on whether there is likely  spoilage with the items in the kit package.

Thanks for any thoughts / info.

 

which system

12:57 pm in Completed Window Farms, Education, Getting Started, How-Tos, kits, Projects in Process, Seeking Advice by Barbara Kling

Which system would work better in a greenhouse?  The home or school?

Help our research and take the Community Site Survey

2:52 pm in Being a good member of this community, Help the project by testing this, kits, Windowfarms Project News by Windowfarms

We need to hear from you. Our windowfarm community has been a huge success and we want to make it even better. Your contribution to this survey will have a huge impact on the future of this community. Please take the 10 minutes to fill out the survey and as always thank you so much!

Take the survey and enter your username at the top.

-Britta

Windowfarm: Genesis through Month Three

6:38 pm in Completed Window Farms, kits, Starting Seeds by Allison Casey

Hello, fellow Windowfarmers!


It’s my inaugural post on these pages, to share the story of my three-month-old farm.


An advance warning: this will almost certainly be a little lengthy… For the visually-inclined, I’ve uploaded some accompanying pictures.


Chapter 1: Seedlings


We decided to build a Windowfarm at my workplace last summer, and were one of the first on board when the kits first went on sale. The kit (Classic 4-column and bottles) arrived in August, and I ordered a huge selection of seeds from Burpee to coincide (at the time I didn’t realize the kit itself comes with enough seeds to start the farm).


Growing seedlings… is not the easiest thing in the world. The first time around I set myself up with an ice cube tray, where I put maybe an eighth-inch of hydrogen peroxide and filled the rest with water. I made little labels for each variety of plant I was growing (all leafy things — a few types of lettuce, chard, bok choy, basil, spinach…) and dropped a few seeds for each into the mix.


Unable to find any real instructions for how long to leave the seeds in the mixture, that first time I left them in for almost the entire workday, then inserted them into Flora Plugs and put the tray in a cupboard (seeds like the dark). A few days later, I started to see some green!


As the sprouts sprouted I moved them to a second ice cube tray on a windowsill, and watered accordingly.


Well… until the weekend.


I somehow naïvely had it in my mind that these little seedlings were a little more resilient than was actually the case, and didn’t stop by the office to tend to them on Saturday. When I finally dragged myself in on Sunday afternoon it became apparent that the window I’d chosen absolutely baked in the early afternoon, and the entire tray was bone-dry and quite dead.


So, a bit of a failure there.


By the time I managed to try again, it was early January. This time I decided to grow the seeds at home to make it a little easier to be at their beck and call, and this was when I hit my stride.


Two main changes here: leaving the seeds in the hydrogen peroxide mixture all day seemed a little excessive (these things grow all on their own in nature, right?), so this time I stuck with about a half an hour — and found no difference at all in sprout rate (both times I planted 16 plants and got 15 sprouts). I also bought a daylight-colored compact fluourescent lamp and reassigned my desk lamp to grow-light duty.


Keeping the seedlings under close light for roughly 18 hours each day, after about four weeks I had some short, bushy little plants that were ready for their next phase of life.


Chapter II: Farm Building


This was… an adventure.


The kit makes the assembly of the farm fairly straightforward and easy, so I’m only going to touch on the points where I struggled or had to improvise.


First of all, mounting. This is about the only area where the kit leaves you hanging (no pun intended!), as there are about a million different variations of how best to do it, depending largely on what you’re drilling into.


Instead of putting the hooks directly into the ceiling of the windowsill (crumbly sheetrock, in my case), I ended up buying a piece of 1×4 wood the length of the window and mounting that with screws (and wall anchors) and L-brackets on either end. (I do not want this thing to fall. Ever.) This method allowed some flexibility (and room for error) in the placement of the hooks, which can be screwed directly into the wood.


I highly, highly recommend taking on this phase of the project with a second set of hands, and ideally one of you will be somewhat familiar with the basic construction-ish type skills that such an endeavor requires. I managed to get through it on my own (with a couple of consulting calls to a friend with more experience hanging stuff than me), but it probably took two hours longer than was actually necessary, and I was a cursing, sweating mess by the end of it.


Chapter III: Time to Turn it On


So. The thing is built and mounted. Transplanting the seedlings is pretty dang simple (especially if you’ve used the Flora pods and don’t have to worry about washing soil off), and they’re now nestled their net cups and bottles. Things are looking good.


I go to add water to the reservoir bottles, and every single one of them starts to leak. Profusely.


Bummer. Major bummer. Taking apart the needle mechanism and tightening every piece helped, but didn’t completely stop the leak. I went out and bought some supplemental sealing washers (probably not the technical term…) to seal it better, which helped a little bit more but still fell short of a complete fix. Finally I ended up using silicon sealant and applying it to the outside of the mechanism (it probably would be more effective inside the bottle cap, but I didn’t really want it leeching into the water supply), and after letting it dry overnight the leaks finally stopped. Were I to do this all over from scratch, I would probably spend a bit of time tweaking that part of the design.


I then ran into trouble getting the water in each column to make it all the way to the top, even after playing around with pump pressure. More specifically, three of the four columns needed a bit of romancing to actually start working. For two of them, just messing around with the alignment of the tubes  ended up working — once they were a little straighter or adjusted just… so… they were fine and allowed the water go all the way up.


For the third nitpicky column, I ended up finding that the tubes can have two different ends: either it closes off a little from the full diameter (I imagine these ends were melted slightly by the manufacturer to get a clean, easy cut), or they are completely open, exactly the width of the tube diameter. For my last column, this slight narrowing of the path was enough that none of the water was making it through the top of the tube, where pressure is lowest. By flipping it around so the tube was open on top, I was able to fix the problem and get the water flowing.


Chapter IV: Thoughts of a “Seasoned” Farmer


First of all, this is not exactly a “green” endeavor. CFLs have turned out to make the difference between a lackluster, limp, disapointing farm and one with vibrant, viable plants. I have two columns of two lights and really could use a third set for the bottom row of plants, and all of these are on for 18 hours a day. It uses a fair amount of energy. Whether it’s really offset by the leafy greens you’re bringing into the world and the more sustainable life you’re now living… well, who knows. Personally I think the novelty factor tips the scale in favor of the farm, but the hardcore environmentalist might not agree.


Speaking of lights, once I decided to add them to the farm, I went the pin-socket route. These things are great and cheap, but I had to manually scrape away the rubber insulation with an x-acto knife to expose the wire where the pins were going to hit — the pins are supposed to poke through on their own, but in my case they didn’t. Just something to keep in mind if they don’t immediately work.


Be very, very careful that the bottle caps don’t clog with algae or other gunk. This became an issue about two months after launching, and resulted in a backup of water in the base of some of the higher bottles, which led to overflowing when we topped off the reservoirs (it took about a week to figure out what was going on) and the dehydration of some of the lower plants. It was a huge pain to take care of. Next time I take the thing apart I’ll probably cut the openings so they’re a little bit bigger and less likely to clog.


I have had particularly excellent success with bok choy, basil, and chard. Romaine lettuce also grows well, and I believe my buttercrunch and simpson lettuce would have been good growers had they not fallen victim to a system malfunction that ended in a bit of a tragedy for one full column. I had terrible luck with rosemary and avon spinach, and after an initial growth spurt, my pea plant seems to have lost the will to live. I have younger cucumber, sage, tomato, and kale plants that are all looking very good, but aren’t yet harvestable, so their jury is technically still out.


Several of my plants were sowed in soil then transplanted into the hydroton pellets, and this transition actually went much better than expected — perhaps even smoother than the plants started in flora pods.


Some of the modifications shared on this community look like they offer great improvements in terms of aesthetics or functionality; the kit leads to a functional farm, but it looks a little science-fair-esque. Fixed mounting and tubes and nicer bottles might allow for a more professional-looking and slightly easier-to-manage system, and I would recommend considering them if you’re starting from scratch.


And if I were to start from scratch, I would do just that — I wouldn’t go with a kit. I appreciated having it as a guide for my first build, but I think I’d be too inclined to tweak the second time around to find it useful.


As one final thought, this thing is a lot of work. It requires active involvement and observation and maintenance. Troubleshooting takes quite a bit of brainpower and know-how, and I’m still very much working toward a stable system full of thriving plants. Generally speaking, it’s not something you can just check in on once or twice a week.


That said, I love the Farm. It looks awesome, there is a crazy sense of achievement at growing plants from seed to the point where they’re edible (especially here in NYC), and visitors love it. I’ve learned a lot, and there’s of course the certain sense of pride when someone sees it for the first time and goes, “Holy cow, what is that?!” If you can devote the time, energy, and resources, I highly recommend taking one on for yourself.


by Bryanna

Cats

2:06 pm in kits, Nutrients, questions, Seeking Advice by Bryanna

Are the nutrient additives that came with my Windowfarm kit harmful if my cats happen to consume them in diluted form?  They haven’t been interested in my new farm yet, but before I add the nutrients, I just want to make sure that I’m not going to poison my kitties, if they do become interested!

Thanks!

Easy way to attach t-joint outside the bottle?

12:28 pm in Education, Help the project by testing this, kits, Materials and Resources, Uncategorized by Brian White

This is an easily available attachment for pop bottles here in Canada. They are available in garden centers for watering plants.  This means the the entire windowfarm can be made from pop bottles and still get excellent airlift.

Your water tube would go down in a J shape to the t- joint to prevent back flow into the reservoir.

If you cut the “showerhead” top off, you can use an upturned pop bottle as your reservoir for a windowfarm and  attach the water pipe to a t-joint  outside  the bottle  and at whatever submergence you choose.  I think this can make life easier for everyone.

Attachment for pop bottles

Plant watering attachment for pop bottles

We <3 Failure!! Kill those plants & dissect them!!

11:55 am in Being a good member of this community, Education, environmental impact, Help the project by testing this, kits, made from scratch (without a kit), our mission, Plants, posts with pitcures!, Version 1.0 Reservoir System, Version 2.0 airlift system, Version 3.0 Modular Airlift Columns by Windowfarms

The moment I started really hating on those water pumps.

Failure is more interesting than success in our community.

In the windowfarms community, no design is final. Rather, we are constantly evolving the designs to better performance standards. They evolve because WE LOVE FAILURE.

You can think you have a brilliant design but, like the Titanic, most designs are subject to failure at some point and it’s only when you see how your design performs throughout several seasons and under unfavorable conditions that you learn its true merits and shortcomings. We are fascinated with merits and shortcomings. Distinguishing between them is the core of what we do.

In our community, value comes- not from having the idea that works- but from BEING A GOOD TESTER.

@ajinil is one of my favorite pioneering testers, who is trying growing strawberries year-round in a snow-laden environment with no supplemental lighting by simply supplying flowering nutrients. So far, he has kept the plants flowering for 9 months!

Innovation can be painful. Death brings moments of revelation for windowfarmers doing R&D-I-Y. Ok. So I was only fake crying in the image above, but I was super bummed about losing my okra plants. After letting off a little steam, we were really able to take inventory of issues from this die-off. Ultimately, this was the last version 1 system we built after determining that nutrients just plain like to clog both water pumps and drip emitters as particulate matter builds up over time and clogs pathways. Failure also motivates progress. This is when the airlift technique started to seem a lot more attractive and worth pursuing. Ian, Ania, and I got to work on tweeking the airlift to work for windowfarms just a few days after this came down.

The MOST interesting moments are the ones right before your plants die (=FAIL= YAY!). What was that edge condition you managed to rock for a while? What can we learn from it?

Dry roots the result of clogged reservoir drippers in a V1 system

A mature plant’s root conditions are the best way to assess the workability of your windowfarm design.

I have a dissection table set up next to my windowfarms and as soon as I kill a plant (and trust me, I kill a LOT of plants with all of the frankenstein systems we have in the core team’s shop, where we test out the community’s ideas), I take it out, look at the root situation in the net cup and see what killed it. Were the roots massive and healthy right before they died? Did they dry out? Did I have spider mites? Are there any signs of rot? Were the factors that killed it particular to this plant or to the system? Would other people have this problem as well?

So maybe you want your windowfarm to thrive– totally valid. That’s why we give you two columns in the kits. One you can have be a control column, where you give your plants ideal conditions and allow them to thrive. Consider dedicating your other column to research. Take on an experimental conditions, fail, and report back!

-Britta

by Tom M

Passive system feedback

9:22 am in Education, Getting Started, Help the project by testing this, kits, Projects in Process, Seeking Advice by Tom M

hello, my name is Tom and I am a student studying 3D Design. One of my recent projects was looking at hydroponic gardens. Initially my project was focused on people who live in houseboats due to the lack of space and faculties available to them, however as the project developed it became apparent that my solution would be transferable to other environments such as apartments and people with limited space.

I thought I would create a post to get a bit of feedback with people who use hydroponics and probably have a lot more expertise then me!

My final solution was to create a very simple passive system using a cotton wick, which pulls up the nutrient solution from the bottom bottle to the top. Above is some computer renders of my final system, I hope after reading how it all works it will make sense!

The bottom bottle contains the nutrients solution, and the top contains the growing medium (I imagine it to be coconut fibre), with a wick which joins the two together through my joining system.

The main part of the project is the joining system between the bottles, which allowed you to use different size bottles depending on what you had. It works by using a latex skin which you can pull over the bottle top, similar to how you stretch the end of a balloon over a bottle. It also holds the string for hanging the garden, and because it is a very simple system you can have as many bottles as you wanted (or could fit) on the string.

This linking product makes it a lot easier to begin a hydroponic garden, therefore making it more accessible. I imagine that you would be able to buy the linking system with the nutrients and instructions how to grow with hydroponics, as well as releasing open source instructions on how to create a similar system for free so you could adapt to your needs/ expertise.

I would love it if you could give some feedback to this project, any advice to make it better or directions you think it could go in. It was only a four week project, so is definitely not a finished polished product and could be radically improved.

Thanks for reading and get posting

Tom