A friend of mine showed me a ”window farm” of hers using no hydroponic equipment at all.
It used just a simple system in which the water wicks up through a porous rope that runs through the center of
each cell with a hanging reservoir at the bottom. It was entirely self contained. This
would be ideal for me because window space is at a premium in my place, and none of our
electrical outlets are close to windows. Another plus to this is that it uses just about
zero electricity. I didn’t get the chance to have her explain her setup to me in full
detail, so I was wondering if there’s any difference in the mechanics of such a setup?

Note: Her system also used soil, which I assume would be safe in a situation with no electrical parts. The system works in the same manner as a free-standing planter using a wick made out of a single bottle.

The airlift is providing too much flow and the seedlings are getting too much watering – there cannot be enough air getting to them

After having a good laugh at the prices of interval timer/switch units I have decided to construct an electronic circuit to do this.

That may sound a big deal – but as we don’t care too much about the accuracy of the intervals or the duration of the “on” period I should be able to produce a very simple circuit (cost circa £8 – £5 if you already have a spare 12 volt supply kicking around) to swith the pump on for say 30 minutes and switch off for say 2 hours (but I will make the periods adjustable)

I will upload a circuit when it’s prototyped but it should be within the capabilities of anyone who can use a soldering iron.

OK I’m uploading a circuit BEFORE it’s prototyped/tested so don’t complain if it does not work!

untested v1 - HyTime

silox – 1st Week Progress and 2nd Vertical Plant Tower w/ New Plants – March 30th, 2010

This is an update after the 1st week of growing in the 1st vertical plant tower and after building/planting in the 2nd vertical tower of our hydroponic window farm.

We have learned a few things just in the 1st week of setting up, planting and running our hydroponic window farm that I would like to share with you.

*  Mentioned it in my last post, but I cannot stress enough, water quality is VERY IMPORTANT.  The first couple of days I used our city tap water to power the 1st vertical plant tower(before my first video/blog until 3/22/2010).  This was also before I purchased a simple PH testing kit.  The electronic ones are nice, but I stuck with the manual method using a small container and drops to gauge the PH for costs reasons, plus I don’t think I’ll have to use it that often due to the reservoir sizes and the water I use now.  I tested the PH of the city tap water I was using and it was over 7 which is not good. Aside from an unbalance PH, the city tap water also contains chlorine, flouride, other chemicals and various minerals.  Even though water can be naturally dechlorinated by letting it sit 24-48hrs in an uncovered bucket, you still have to worry about all of the other nasty stuff and the PH of the water.  Now, I could go through the trouble of filtering my water which I may do in some form or fashion in the future, but I find it easier and cheaper to purchase RO(Reverse Osmosis) water locally from 1 of the 2 sources less than a mile away which I did and I can happily say I’m now using it.  Right out of the gate, the PH was perfect and no impurities whatsoever.  An unbalanced PH can cause the plants to stop uptaking some or all nutrients in order to protect itself(from what I’ve read), same with all of the other chemicals inside the water.  We do have some indoor AC units that collect several gallons of condensation daily in collection containers when they are working hard all day to cool down the apartment, so we will probably look into using that water instead when the time comes to keep them on.  We are also considering purchasing an atmospheric water generator such as an Ecoloblue which also collects water from the atmosphere/humidity in the air, but also filters it afterwards which allows it to be used for drinking/cooking etc(7-8 gallons a day!) and the hydro reservoirs.

* Adequate lighting is also very important to keep the plants photosynthesizing which equals produce!  I think it’s probably safe to say that most window farms will probably not have 100% of the needed light to produce as quickly or as much as most people desire, but I could be wrong here.  That is certainly the situation in our setup and while we try to use the natural sunlight when it’s available for a few hours a day, we’ve supplemented to make up for the lack of desired light.  We added a 4ft 54W florescent bulb complete with reflector to our window farm and attached to the sliding glass door facing the vertical plant towers.  We reshaped the reflector to open up and allow for light to be casted almost 180 degrees towards the side of the plants which I believe really helps the light be as efficient as possible and keeping unwanted light from shining out of our window towards the neighbors.  You can tell the plants really are reaching to grow towards the light, so much that I’m going to need to move the vertical plant tower back just a hair to keep them from touching it, hehe.  I have the light on a timer for 12hr on/12hr off(6:30am to 6:30pm).

* Attaching the wooden dowels that support all of the plant containers on the vertical plant tower to the reservior for extra support sounded like a good idea at first, but presented some logistical maintenance problems later on.  We corrected this by mounting a aluminum L bracket (the kind designed to hold up a simple shelf) to the top of the window area so they wooden dowels can held straight up via a hook driven into the top of the dowel and inserted into a hole on the end of the L bracket.  All of the weight of the plants/dowel is resting on the floor via the bottom of the wooden dowel and the hook/L bracket assembly is to keep it from tipping over.  This allows for us to easily move or rotate the vertical plant tower and remove the reservior for water maintenance(water replacment and cleaning).  This will also allow me to move the vertical plant towers back some from the light as I mentioned above with a simple modification or two.

* We are using the caps that came with the bottles and recreated the holes in them to be smaller directly in the middle of the cap.  The plan does not call for these caps AFAIK.  Why did I use them?  To keep water from splashing out of the containers onto the floor.  Without the caps or using caps with large holes in them allows for water to flow unevenly which results in droplets that are thrown out the container and that adds up quickly over a few days.  I recut the caps to use a smaller hole(5mm) and this seems to work very well.

Recap of plants we have growing, locations and dates planted

Plants on 1st vertical tower(far left) from top to bottom – planted on 20100321:
1. Butterleaf Lettuce
2. Green Beans
3. Strawberries
4. Jalapenos

Plants on 2nd vertical tower(middle or right) from top to bottom – planted on 20100330:
1. Brussel Sprouts
2. Cauliflower
3. Broccoli
4. Eggplant

I thought it would be interesting to do a little math on the cost to run the light and pump.  With my current setup(1x 54W florescent light and 1x Petco 9904 pump), assuming a 30day month and $0.15/KWh power rate, it costs a mere approximate of $3.50 a month to run the light 12hrs a day and the pump non-stop.  Not bad!!

Our future plan is to put a 3 vertical plant tower in the same window on the far right.  In order to do so, we will need to purchase another 4ft 54W florescent light w/ reflector(lights can be daisy-chained together out of the box), another air pump and 4 more 1.5L Ozarka water bottles.  We pre-purchased all of the other materials with the expectations of creating at least 3 vertical plant towers total.

Will try to post an update in about a week’s time.  Happy window farming!

Recently I added liquid organic fish fertilizer (Neptune’s Harvest 2-4-1) – about 1 Tbs diluted in 1 gallon water added to resevoir that already had a gallon or two in it. There’s definitely a bit of a smell. I think I’ll probably drain the resevoir and try a different fertilizer at some point for a comparison. I really need the windowfarm to be as smell-free as possible as the guestroom of our apt will soon be occupied and so I need to tone down the workshop/mad scientist aspects of the project.

After reading Britta’s post about lights yesterday I suspect that my baby mint and thyme plants are looking leggy so I’ve added linear flourescent shop lights balanced vertically in the corners of the windowframe. I put these on the same 14 hour on timer that I’m using with my seed germination light. Since I’m not trying to induce flowering (I’m growing leafy kitchen herbs.) does anyone know if I should be using a dawn to dusk light cycle instead with the lights?

Hopefully by next week plants will be big enough to show up in a photo. I swear they are there.

Please check out the excellent work of the Finnish Windowfarms team. This shot is a sneak preview of them installing the first few LED lights on the windowfarm they made out of Finnish recyclables in the window of the Kiasma Contemporary Art Museum in Helsinki.

Their work on adapting the Windowfarms Project for Finland is part of a larger program called Herbologies/Foraging Networks at the Pixelache festival happening this month in Helsinki.

Niko Punin was responsible for development of the grow spectrum LEDs and has some very interesting ideas that we will be watching closely in the future!

More pictures here:

Windowfarms Finland on Facebook

Had some minor issues when I started the system pumping on a regular basis where one column was dripping beautifully and the other dripped in fits and starts. Turned out the top reservoir was not level. Now I have about three gallons of water in the system, timer set to run the pump for three minutes every two hours, and water flow seems constant.

Next big step is adding nutrients to the water in the system. I’m worried about the smell of the organic fertilizer I’ve used in my regular garden in the past. I’ve spilled so much water on the floor during setup that I’m worried the room will soon reek of fish fertilizer. But I’m going to start with a small amount and hope that the smell won’t be too strong.

Once things are growing well I’m hoping to upgrade the system to using an electronic float switch and relay to power the pump when the bottom reservoir reaches a certain level. I’m really eager to get an Arduino attached to my system in hopes of learning to monitor environmental data. I want to use the windowfarm as a testbed for a data gathering and  control system that I can eventually use with my rooftop chile garden for remote monitoring and hopefully remote control of watering and fertilization.

http://www.aquahub.com/store/ifloatfloatswitch.html

Until plants reach the adult phase, they require more light. I generally supplemented seedlings light for 18 hours per day. Then, once they reached maturity, I decreased to 12 hours.

The construction of the actual WindowFarm setup is IMO pretty terrible-looking and very sloppy. I just wanted to get something working though, and the plants don’t seem to mind.

Here is a picture of the circuit:

And here is a picture of the complete WindowFarm:

I wrote a little bit of code for a Fonera Fon2100 router I had lying around, making the modifications to the OpenWRT firmware (version 8.09.1) running on there. It gives its web-interface a ‘Sensors’ link that AJAX-updates the analog pin values from the Arduino. Right now on my setup it is all just noise except pin 0 which has a photosensor on it that gives light readings near the window. It is the plan to turn on the lights in an 18-hour window if the light value falls below some threshold.

Here is a screenshot of OpenWRT’s modified web-interface:

I have the code for the Arduino sketch as well as the OpenWRT changes here: http://github.com/nemik/arduinoponics and more photos of the setup on my Flickr set here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/nemik/sets/72157622608195083/

I’m going to try to automate this more and more, hopefully also fix the construction.

Open to any suggestions or criticisms!