by Sabrina
HAAALLP! :)
8:40 pm in Getting Started, Materials and Resources, Seeking Advice by Sabrina
I am building the first tower of hopefully 3 for my garden. I have used the instructions listed for the V3.0 MAMA w/participatory setup listed here on the site. But it all comes down to making that bottom bottle’s cap water secure. So far this has been impossible. I have all the pieces listed for Type A Same cap, same check valve listed. The valve does fit nicely in the cap, but i havent found a caulk that will stick to the plastic of the cap. I even tried to find a rubber O ring to fit between the check valve and the cap, but no luck. Through all of my last few experiments I have been using only aquarium caulk. Nothing has worked. Lastly I have tried black rubber corks (the kind you see in science class) with a hole drilled for the check valve in one end and the tubing in the other. The cork fits great in the bottle. This setup is still curing so I cant tell you yet how it works out. My first try with this failed as the check valve itself was leaking water i discovered. I have been at this for 2 1/2 weeks taking into account the caulk curing time needed. I have to tell you, I am running out of ideas. 
At the same time I have new seedling waiting for a home. Is there an important part of the cap config that I missed here?
I had a hard time sourcing parts mentioned in the article so I was going to try this:
- Find a drill bit that matches the end of the check valve.
- Drill hole through bottle cap
- Apply glue around the hole
- Jam check valve through the hole and let glue cure to form a seal.
I know how you feel about the seedling waiting for a home. I am in the same boat while testing for leaks in my new farm.
I tried that too. That was my first setup. The caulk wasnt aquarium stuff, and so leaked badly. But actually I havent found a cap that the aquarium caulk WILL stick to. Not one. Now it does say that it wont stick to some plastics and rubbers. This last config, with the black rubber chemistry class type cork, looks like it gonna hold. We drilled a hole through it, jammed a caulked check valve with the inflation needle into the smaller end, the one that will be in the bottle, and an air tube (also caulked) into the wider end. This has been curing for 48 hours so we will be able to test it today.
My only concern is the rubber of the cork. I think though, that if they are used in chemistry classes, then the grade of rubber should be of a type that wont break down easliy and release crap into the water. I have pics of everything as it has been assembled. Will get them posted soon.
You really don’t need any extra parts. See my diagram:
http://our.windowfarms.org/files/2011/03/Air-Line-Setup.jpg
No the black corks arent working either. Now the water is just coming right into the bottom tube going to the pump. Seems to be forcing its way through the check valve…tried 2 different ones now. Again the setup is from the 3.0 version. I am out of ideas. I have been at it for going on 3 weeks and stil have not been able to get the mechanics of this setup to work. Sorry, but was this setup tested? It looks great on paper but….
Is the pump placed higher than the top of the reservoir?
If so, the liquid shouldn’t be able to force its way into it, or through it.
What’s the rating on your pump?
(How much air / Minute)
Note that if you’re using a pump with two or more outputs, you’ll need to block the unused outputs as these are often connected together in pairs, and having an ‘unloaded’ output may unbalance the motor and cause excess wear, or even let air meant for one output leak out the other.
Personally, I don’t like the v3 airlift and use what’s called the ‘V2 modified’ version.
http://our.windowfarms.org/2010/04/26/our-hydroponic-window-farm-experience/
If nothing else works, take a look at it.
(I find that the tubes letting the water into the lift through the needles should be at least 5 or 6″ long. Also, a with a free-standing reservoir, and return-tubes from the bottom bottle in the columns, a single reservoir can serve several columns. I have two columns for each reservoir. You’ll need larger reservoir if you do so, though. And cans with large caps are better as you need to feed several tubes through the opening.)
There’s a ‘Low Level Pulser’ design somewhere on this site, which also seems to work best with standalone reservoirs, and which seems to work on very low liquid levels.
Might want to try something like “hot glue” to see if that works. I know aquarium sealant is recommended by hydroponic growers, but it might be worth looking at other options.
I’ve also found that not all check valves are created equal. Some are just junk. Might want to try a different supplier.
I also had better luck with the low level pulser then anything else.
http://our.windowfarms.org/2011/01/26/low-water-level-pulser-pump/
Well guys, I have spent 3 weeks on this project and upwards of $200. The instructions for the V3.0 MAMA are a bust. Nothing has works on it. Not the bottom reservoir caps nor the airlift setup. I am out of funds to waste on this project. Have fun all, mine is going to the recycle bin.
You haven’t really given us all that much to go on when helping you.
What’s the rating on the pump?
Are you absolutely certain that the valves have been mounted the right way?
Checked that the needles function correctly?
What happens, symptoms?
Also, not all of your responses are visible to others. You may need to go into the ‘My blogs’ drop-down and select ‘our windowfarms org’ and ‘manage comments’ to make them visible.
I tried using the V3 instructions, but it was a waste of money constructing the air valve thingie with the bicycle tube gizmo. I have made a bunch of 3 bottle tower systems by using teflon tape. Wrap the teflon tape around the check valve a few times then screw the air needle on. Wrap the air needle onto the check valve with more teflon tape. Wrap enough of it so that it squeezes through the opening of the bottle cap. Wrap more teflon tape around the end of the check valve and the bottle cap to make sure the needle doesn’t come loose and that the bottle cap doesn’t leak. This is simple and works every time without a leak.